People often ask how wood is pressure treated so the purpose of this article is to provide the basics of the process - the elevator speech on pressure treating wood.
Pressure Treating Wood
Currently, the two most popular pressure treatment chemicals in use are CCA (Chromated Copper Arsenate) and ACQ (Alkaline Copper Quaternary). Both treatments are actually solid compounds. Water is used in the pressure treating process to carry the compounds into the wood.
The wood to be treated is put into a large sealed horizontal treating cylinder in which the water carrying the preservative chemical is pumped, surrounding the wood. Pressure is applied inside the cylinder to force the waterborne wood preservatives into the cellular structure of the wood until the desired retention level is reached.
Next, the treating chemical is pulled from the treating cylinder and stored in another tank to be reused. A vacuum is then applied to the treating cylinder to pull excess water from the wood. The wood is removed from the cylinder and allowed to air dry outside, maybe with fans, or it might even be put into a kiln.
Slight alterations to the procedure may be required based on what the wood will be used for and what level of retention is required but the overall process is the same.
Pressure Treating wood is not rocket science but does require specialized equipment, expertise, is highly regulated, adds a great deal of value to the wood, and helps the environment by prolonging the life of lumber and preventing the need to replace that wood by cutting additional trees in the future.
More Information on Custom Home Building at: Ontario Home Builder
Sunday, September 17, 2006
Friday, June 02, 2006
Kamado Cooker - The Big Egg is becomming more and more popular!
The average North American homeowner is spending more time at home and within the community with family, friends and neighbors.
The Hearth, Patio and Barbecue Association (HPBA) says we'll spend $65 billion this year on outdoor hearth products, grills, furniture, lighting, upgraded landscaping and gardening amenities, pools, spas and hot tubs.
The backyard is the new room to relax, entertain, play, and eat. The HPBA says some 91 percent of pool and spa stores now require a kitchen dining compoiaent with their new installations.
Outdoor grilling - while growing more sophisticated - is more popular than ever with 81 percent of families owning a grill.
Well, there is a new star on the horizon - the kamado cooker. The perfect smoker, grill and barbecue.
The idea is 3000 years old but the kamado cooker is becomming more and more popular!
From the Indian tandoor to the classic italian wood burning oven, ceramics are famous for their tasty results.
The Kamado cooker is a ceramic BBQ cooker/smoker that allows you to cook your food in a variety of delicious, healthy ways.
Once you've cooked, grilled, smoked, or seared with a ceramic outdoor grill, you'll never go back. The advantages are numerous:
· Enjoy a faster, more efficient method of cooking.
· Your food tastes better.
· Your dinner guests stay happier.
· Highly efficient - Grills with thick walls of the ceramic hold heat extremely well - allowing for foods to cook using much less charcoal.
· You will also find that once you're finished cooking, close the lid, top and bottom drafts and the fire extinguishes itself without wastefully burning the remaining charcoal or without fire hazzard.
· Retain moisture in the foods you cook. Unlike metal charcoal, gas or electric grills, the ceramic holds both heat and moisture extremely well - keeping your food juicier.
· Safer than traditional grills - Those worries you have about people getting burned on the hot surfaces of a grill are a thing of the past. Due to the ceramic undercoating, these grills are much safer than traditional metal charcoal, gas or electric grills. The ceramic absorbs the heat, leaving the outer shell of the cooker cool to the touch.
· Better tasting - Forget about that metallic taste you're so used to from other metal charcoal, gas or electric grills. Ceramic holds the natural flavors in, so your food comes out tasting the way it's supposed to taste.
· No mess - Keeping your outdoor grill clean and looking good has never been easier. With ceramic, the heat from the inside of the grill burns off any excess grease, much like a self-cleaning oven. And thanks to slower, more complete burn, you'll have less ash to clean up afterwards.
Meats, fish, veggies, pizza—all done to perfection.
Add your favorite wood chips or chunks for a genuine wood smoke flavor. Set your vents to maintain your desired temperature. . . from low/slow to red-hot for searing. . . from roasting to baking... and relax while you get ready for the best eating yet.
Ceramic grills cook with reduced airflow. The result is that cooked foods are more moist and meats have dramatically less shrinkage.
Saturday, May 13, 2006
Taking Your Final Walk Through - What You Need To Know...
Before you close on your custom new home, you and your builder will "walk through" the house to conduct a final inspection.
This is the best opportunity for you to learn how your new home works and to notice items that need to be fixed or adjusted.
At the same time the builder will inform you about the following items:
- The operation of the house's mechanical systems.
- The homeowner's responsibilities for maintenance and upkeep.
- Warranty coverage and procedures.
With a new house, you will be receiving a stack of instruction booklets all at once.
It helps if someone can take the time to show you how to operate all of the kitchen appliances, the heating and cooling systems, heat recovery ventilator, the water heater, alarm system, and other features in the home.
Such an orientation is particularly useful considering that when moving into a new home, people often are so busy that they have trouble finding time to read instructions.
All new homes come with a one-year warranty on workmanship and materials for the most part. Structural defects are covered for up to seven years depending on the problem and the place..
These types of warranties do not cover problems that develop because of failure to perform required maintenance.
Should a warranted problem arise after you move in, the builder is likely to have a set of warranty service procedures to follow.
Except in emergencies, requests for service should be in writing.
This is not because the builder is trying to be bureaucratic.
Rather, it is to ensure that everyone clearly understands the service to be performed.
The person receiving a service request is not likely to be the person performing the work, and you don't want to rely on word of mouth for transmission of your service order.
Many builders schedule two visits during the first year -- one near the beginning and the other near the end -- to make necessary adjustments and to perform work of a non-emergency nature.
You should not expect a builder to rush out immediately for a problem such as a nail pop in your drywall.
Such problems occur because of the natural settling of the house and are best addressed in one visit near the end of the first year.
With respect to inspecting the house, an effective way to handle this is with a checklist.
The list should include everything that needs attention, and you and your builder should agree to a timetable for repairs.
Builders prefer to remedy problems before you move in, because it is easier for them to work in an empty house.
Some items may have to be corrected after move-in.
For instance, if your walk-through is in the winter, your builder may have to delay landscaping adjustments until spring.
It is important that you be very thorough and observant during the walk-through.
Carefully examine all surfaces of counters, fixtures, floors and walls for possible damage.
Sometimes, disputes arise because a buyer may discover a gouge in a counter top after move-in, and there is no way to prove whether it was caused by the builder's workers or the buyer's movers.
Many builders ask their buyers to sign a form at the walk-through stating that all surfaces have been inspected and that there was no damage other than what has been noted on the walk-through checklist.
Ask a lot of questions during the walk-through and take notes on the answers.
Never be afraid to appear stupid by asking too many questions.
It is important to view the walk-through as a positive learning experience that will enhance your enjoyment of your home.
Here's a check list to help you through this process:
- Does the ground around the foundation slope away from the house?
- Make sure the water does not pond in swales.
- To check, water the areas with a hose, if possible.
- Are there signs of erosion?
- Is the water pooling on the driveway?
- If the house has a basement, are the basement window wells clean and graveled?
- Are the shingles flat and tight?
- Is the flashing securely in place?
- Do the gutters leak?
- Do the gutters, downspouts and splash blocks direct water away from the house?
- Are the windows and doors sealed and protected by weather stripping?
- Is the caulking placed correctly?
- Are the trim and fittings tight? Are there any cracks?
- Does the paint cover the surface and trim smoothly?
- Are all doors and windows sealed?
- Do they open and close easily?
- Is the glass properly in place? Is any loose or cracked?
- Is the painting satisfactory in all rooms, closets and stairways?
- Did the painters miss any spots?
- Are there any paint spots where they should not be?
- Are the trim and molding in place?
- Is the carpet tight? Do the seams match?
- Are there any ridges or seam gaps in vinyl tile or linoleum?
- Are wooden floors properly finished?
- Do all of the appliances operate properly?
- Check all faucets and plumbing fixtures, including toilets and showers, to make sure they operate properly.
- Check all electrical fixtures and outlets. Bring a hair dryer to test the outlets.
- Do the heating, cooling and water heating units operate properly? Test them to make sure.
- If the home has a fireplace, do the draft and damper work?
- Are there any nicks, scratches, cracks or burns on any surfaces, including cabinets and countertops?
- Test the doorbell. Also test the intercom system, garage door opener and any other optional items.
- Are there indications of dampness or leaks or mould?
- Is there significant cracking in the floors or foundation walls?
- Are there any obvious defects in exposed components, such as floor joists, I-beams, support columns, insulation, heating ducts, plumbing, electrical, etc.?
- Is there Occupancy Permit from your local municipality?
Some problems may not be readily apparent during the walk-through. Even a professional inspector might miss a few.
Most warranties cover any such problems that are the result of faulty workmanship.However, warranties usually exclude problems that result from owner neglect or improper maintenance.
Original Article Here: Walk Through
Sunday, May 07, 2006
Bathroom Check List: From "Shower Space Size" To "Safety Requirements"
General:
- The bathroom entrance door swings so that it does not interfere with people in front of fixtures.
- Fixtures located so that more than two people can use the space comfortably.
- Water closet and bidet in separate compartments or shielded from entrance view.
Lavatory:
- 15" (38 cm) or more of clearance space from the centerline of lavatory bowl to a wall or similar obstruction.
- 30" (76 cm) or more of clearance space between the centerlines of double-bowl lavatories.
- At least 30" x 48" (76 cm x 122 cm) of clear floor space in front of the lavatory.
Water Closet/Bidet:
- 16" (41 cm) from the centerline of a water closet or bidet to a wall or similar obstruction, or fixture adjacent to it.
- At least 48" x 48" (122 cm x 122 cm) of clear floor space in front of the water closet or bidet.
Bathing/Shower Space:
- Shower space size large enough to comfortably use, at least 34" x 34" (86.36 cm x 86.36 cm). Bigger = Better
- Tub size large enough to comfortably use (at least 5').
- At least 60" x 30" (152 cm x 76 cm) of clear floor space in front of shower/tub.
Safety Requirements:
- Non-slip flooring used throughout the space.
- Ground-fault circuit interrupter electrical recepticals used.
- Electrical switches placed away from tub or shower.
- Grab-bars at shower/tub entrance and inside enclosure.
- Tub and/or shower easy to enter and exit.
- No steps at the tub or shower.
- Safety glazing on glass used for shower doors.
- Shower door swings into bathroom, not into shower enclosure.
- Bench/seat included in shower enclosure.
- Pressure balanced water control valves used in shower.
- Temperature regulating water control valves used in shower.
Storage System Requirements:
- Adequate counter or shelf space around lavatory.
- Adequate storage for grooming equipment, toiletries, linens, etc., 15" - 48" (38 cm - 122 cm) above the floor.
- Towel bars /rings located within reach of fixtures.
- Bathroom linen and paper product storage space provided.
- Storage space for shampoo and such in the shower/tub area, between 15" to 48" (38 cm - 122 cm) above the floor.
Mechanical System Requirements:
- An efficient ventilation system is part of the plan.
- Bathroom heating system will keep the space comfortably warm.
- Task lighting provided at every functional area.
- General lighting provided throughout the bathroom.
Saturday, April 29, 2006
23 Things You Need To Know About Wood Burning Stoves That May Save Your Life!
Note: Before installing a wood burning stove, seek advice from your stove dealer, your local building inspector or fire department. And check with your insurance agent. The insurance company may have its own specifications for installation and, since you are changing the method of heating your home, your agent must be notified in order to maintain fire insurance coverage on your home.
A. Wall Protection
1. Standards for clearances from walls and ceilings that are the basis for many local building codes state that all combustible materials, woodwork, unprotected walls, furniture, firewood, etc., should be no closer than 36 inches to a wood stove.
A simple test will tell if you have enough clearance to an unprotected wall. Place your hand on the closest surface. If you can keep your hand there comfortably while the stove is operating, the location passes the test. If not, you need additional protection.
You can read the rest of the article at: Wood Burning Stove
A. Wall Protection
1. Standards for clearances from walls and ceilings that are the basis for many local building codes state that all combustible materials, woodwork, unprotected walls, furniture, firewood, etc., should be no closer than 36 inches to a wood stove.
A simple test will tell if you have enough clearance to an unprotected wall. Place your hand on the closest surface. If you can keep your hand there comfortably while the stove is operating, the location passes the test. If not, you need additional protection.
You can read the rest of the article at: Wood Burning Stove
Monday, April 24, 2006
Navigating a Construction Contract: - Allowance Items
By Morris and James Carey
The Associated Press
The allowance you got when you were a kid is nothing like an allowance in a construction contract. Unlike your parents, your contractor is not giving you anything when an allowance is included in the deal.
If you are getting ready to hire a contractor you should clearly understand what an allowance is, how it relates to the project and how to best determine whether it is reasonably accurate.
An allowance in a construction contract refers to a dollar value (or monetary allowance) that is assigned to an item of work (e.g., light fixture budget, plumbing fixture budget, painting budget).
In theory, this practice is used by architects, engineers, designers (and other construction professionals) to establish budgetary guidelines. This is only done when details or specifications are not available for the work in question, although it is important to make sure that every item in the budget be assigned a value.
Using an allowance instead of pricing specific items can be risky.
With allowance items, if the value of the allowance in the contract is greater than what is needed to make the actual purchase, the contractor will normally refund the difference to the client. On the other hand, if a greater sum of money is needed to purchase an allowance item, it comes out of your pocket even if the contract is for a fixed price.
There is a major downside to using allowance budgeting. Unscrupulous contractors will use allowances to reduce their bid in hopes of getting the client to sign on the dotted line.
In a kitchen remodel, for example, a contractor might assign cabinetry, countertops and appliances as allowance items, saying that the items can be purchased for the values he included. The problem arises when the client decides to purchase the items and discovers that the level of quality isn't what was expected, resulting in a major budget crunch.
Solve the problem before it becomes one.
Once the "blueprint" or "basic set of plans" has been developed, the next step is to create a corresponding set of details known as "specifications." The specifications explain, in depth, each of the elements contained in the plan.
For example: Where the plan might show a sink, the specifications would indicate the brand of the sink, model number, size, color and even what it's made of. Generally speaking, the more thorough the specifications are, the more accurate the bids will be.
Remember: if it were your home that was going to be remodeled or built, no one could know exactly what the entry porch light fixture was going to look like until you selected the one you wanted.
To ensure that your bid is as accurate as possible, the prices contained therein should be based on an existing specification that lists exactly what you want, in detail.
You don't have to use an allowance even if you haven't made a decision on exactly what you want. All you have to do is select something that's close.
For example: You may not be able to decide on which faucet you want to use. However, most contractors have books that you can look through to find something appealing. Then, that item can be priced and included in the bid. Then everyone involved will have a better idea of what is on your mind. A price without associated details doesn't tell anyone anything about what you really want.
If an allowance must be used, then you should at least ask the contractor to include a notation that reflects the highest and lowest priced items in that category. You should always do your best to be aware of the prices of the items stipulated as allowances. If not, there is a good chance you will be shortchanged. Allowances should not be taken lightly.
Keep in mind that you have as much responsibility to a written contract as the contractor does. And when you sign on the dotted line, it would be good to know that there won't be a series of up-charges that follow.
Remember: The budget always looks much higher at bid time than it does at purchase time.
Make as many selections as possible before beginning the bidding process. The low bidder may be low because of insufficient allowances.
If you must use an allowance in the bid, do plenty of shopping on your own to arrive at an allowance value that is comfortable in your mind and that will cover the cost of what you want (and don't forget to include taxes, delivery fees, and extra installation costs for more complicated items).
Never be in a rush to get bids, or enter into a contract.
If allowances make up 20 percent or more of your construction contract, then you could be asking for serious budget trouble. especially if you haven't done your homework. Most contractors are honest, but what if you get a "bad" one? You should allow for that.
The Associated Press
The allowance you got when you were a kid is nothing like an allowance in a construction contract. Unlike your parents, your contractor is not giving you anything when an allowance is included in the deal.
If you are getting ready to hire a contractor you should clearly understand what an allowance is, how it relates to the project and how to best determine whether it is reasonably accurate.
An allowance in a construction contract refers to a dollar value (or monetary allowance) that is assigned to an item of work (e.g., light fixture budget, plumbing fixture budget, painting budget).
In theory, this practice is used by architects, engineers, designers (and other construction professionals) to establish budgetary guidelines. This is only done when details or specifications are not available for the work in question, although it is important to make sure that every item in the budget be assigned a value.
Using an allowance instead of pricing specific items can be risky.
With allowance items, if the value of the allowance in the contract is greater than what is needed to make the actual purchase, the contractor will normally refund the difference to the client. On the other hand, if a greater sum of money is needed to purchase an allowance item, it comes out of your pocket even if the contract is for a fixed price.
There is a major downside to using allowance budgeting. Unscrupulous contractors will use allowances to reduce their bid in hopes of getting the client to sign on the dotted line.
In a kitchen remodel, for example, a contractor might assign cabinetry, countertops and appliances as allowance items, saying that the items can be purchased for the values he included. The problem arises when the client decides to purchase the items and discovers that the level of quality isn't what was expected, resulting in a major budget crunch.
Solve the problem before it becomes one.
Once the "blueprint" or "basic set of plans" has been developed, the next step is to create a corresponding set of details known as "specifications." The specifications explain, in depth, each of the elements contained in the plan.
For example: Where the plan might show a sink, the specifications would indicate the brand of the sink, model number, size, color and even what it's made of. Generally speaking, the more thorough the specifications are, the more accurate the bids will be.
Remember: if it were your home that was going to be remodeled or built, no one could know exactly what the entry porch light fixture was going to look like until you selected the one you wanted.
To ensure that your bid is as accurate as possible, the prices contained therein should be based on an existing specification that lists exactly what you want, in detail.
You don't have to use an allowance even if you haven't made a decision on exactly what you want. All you have to do is select something that's close.
For example: You may not be able to decide on which faucet you want to use. However, most contractors have books that you can look through to find something appealing. Then, that item can be priced and included in the bid. Then everyone involved will have a better idea of what is on your mind. A price without associated details doesn't tell anyone anything about what you really want.
If an allowance must be used, then you should at least ask the contractor to include a notation that reflects the highest and lowest priced items in that category. You should always do your best to be aware of the prices of the items stipulated as allowances. If not, there is a good chance you will be shortchanged. Allowances should not be taken lightly.
Keep in mind that you have as much responsibility to a written contract as the contractor does. And when you sign on the dotted line, it would be good to know that there won't be a series of up-charges that follow.
Remember: The budget always looks much higher at bid time than it does at purchase time.
Make as many selections as possible before beginning the bidding process. The low bidder may be low because of insufficient allowances.
If you must use an allowance in the bid, do plenty of shopping on your own to arrive at an allowance value that is comfortable in your mind and that will cover the cost of what you want (and don't forget to include taxes, delivery fees, and extra installation costs for more complicated items).
Never be in a rush to get bids, or enter into a contract.
If allowances make up 20 percent or more of your construction contract, then you could be asking for serious budget trouble. especially if you haven't done your homework. Most contractors are honest, but what if you get a "bad" one? You should allow for that.
Thursday, April 20, 2006
Is Your Home Sucking Cash Right Out of Your Pocket?
What happened to being able to be comfortable in your own home? Unfortunately, high energy costs this winter resulted in many people having to turn down their thermostats, and instead bundle up in extra sweaters and socks. And rest assured it will only get worse. If the energy costs keep rising at the present rate, you could be dishing out over $1,000 per month just to heat your home by 2011. Add this to the cost of fuel to fill up your car, and suddenly you can see your pay cheque disappearing, as if by magic.
It is a fact that today’s well-informed homeowners are looking for newer, more efficient ways to build homes. They want strength, comfort and lower energy bills, while also allowing for flexibility of design and lower future maintenance costs.
Building technology has advanced greatly. Quality builders are using ICF’s (Insulated Concrete Forms) to create homes that are safer, stronger and healthier than ever before. This type of building is based on simple, interlocking, stacking “blocks” made from flame-retardant expanded polystyrene (EPS) panels connected by molded-in high density polyethylene structural foam bridging.
Filled with concrete, these blocks create a monolithic wall with a minimum insulation value of R25; which then because of the heat retaining properties of concrete increase their performance to R50.
They also have a fire rating which is just under four hours. In addition to all this, there is an added bonus of efficiency because building the walls of a home with ICF’s can take one half of the time (or less) of conventional construction.
The really good news is that now everyone can afford to live in one of these homes; everyone who is concerned about future energy costs and their environment. The initial investment is only about 10% more than the old way of building (wood-frame); but considerably less when you think of the long term costs of energy and maintenance.
Adding other energy efficient features, such as High Efficiency Tank-Less Water Heaters that can heat your whole house while giving you an endless stream of hot water; High Efficiency Low-E Argon Windows, Heat Recovery Ventilators connected to an “Earth Energy” system that pre-conditions incoming air, and Radiant Floor Heating which gives you the ultimate in comfort with body temperature heated floors, can slash 50% off of a homeowner’s monthly heating and cooling bills.
Gone are the days of buying a home for appearance sake only. A little bit of effort and common sense can go a long way in making your home more energy efficient. New homebuyers are consciously choosing to make informed decisions concerning their future and that of their family’s future. They are turning to homes which are more energy-efficient, and environmentally-friendly in addition to paying them dividends for years to come.
About the Author: Harvey Juric, ICF Consultant and CEO of ICFhome.ca is a custom home builder in southern Ontario. He runs several websites promoting energy efficient home. If you are interested in modern home building, his thoughts may be found on the following web sites: Insulated Concrete, Repairing/Building Contractor, Ontario Building Code, Luxury Home Home Design and Ontario-Home-Builder.com
It is a fact that today’s well-informed homeowners are looking for newer, more efficient ways to build homes. They want strength, comfort and lower energy bills, while also allowing for flexibility of design and lower future maintenance costs.
Building technology has advanced greatly. Quality builders are using ICF’s (Insulated Concrete Forms) to create homes that are safer, stronger and healthier than ever before. This type of building is based on simple, interlocking, stacking “blocks” made from flame-retardant expanded polystyrene (EPS) panels connected by molded-in high density polyethylene structural foam bridging.
Filled with concrete, these blocks create a monolithic wall with a minimum insulation value of R25; which then because of the heat retaining properties of concrete increase their performance to R50.
They also have a fire rating which is just under four hours. In addition to all this, there is an added bonus of efficiency because building the walls of a home with ICF’s can take one half of the time (or less) of conventional construction.
The really good news is that now everyone can afford to live in one of these homes; everyone who is concerned about future energy costs and their environment. The initial investment is only about 10% more than the old way of building (wood-frame); but considerably less when you think of the long term costs of energy and maintenance.
Adding other energy efficient features, such as High Efficiency Tank-Less Water Heaters that can heat your whole house while giving you an endless stream of hot water; High Efficiency Low-E Argon Windows, Heat Recovery Ventilators connected to an “Earth Energy” system that pre-conditions incoming air, and Radiant Floor Heating which gives you the ultimate in comfort with body temperature heated floors, can slash 50% off of a homeowner’s monthly heating and cooling bills.
Gone are the days of buying a home for appearance sake only. A little bit of effort and common sense can go a long way in making your home more energy efficient. New homebuyers are consciously choosing to make informed decisions concerning their future and that of their family’s future. They are turning to homes which are more energy-efficient, and environmentally-friendly in addition to paying them dividends for years to come.
About the Author: Harvey Juric, ICF Consultant and CEO of ICFhome.ca is a custom home builder in southern Ontario. He runs several websites promoting energy efficient home. If you are interested in modern home building, his thoughts may be found on the following web sites: Insulated Concrete, Repairing/Building Contractor, Ontario Building Code, Luxury Home Home Design and Ontario-Home-Builder.com
Saturday, April 15, 2006
Waterproofing Your Foundation? What Is The Right Choice?
by: Dagmar Rakos
What is foundation waterproofing?
Waterproofing is Protecting your property foundation – be it residential or commercial – from cracks due to natural processes such as water damage, thermal movement, shrinking, settlement and other causes.
Think of foundation waterproofing as a long term solution for protection of your property.
Did you know that 44% of new homes have leaking basements without 3 years of completion? And the warranty on dry basement on a new home in USA and Canada is only 1 or 2 years?
Think of what can happen if you don’t pay attention to properly seal your house foundation.
It not only causes countless damage to your property it also decreases value of your house, costs money to repair, wastes time, not to mention various health and life hazards.
So what is the Solution to this problem?
Waterproof your property the right way as you build it!
There are many products on the market and it is difficult to choose at times, but not all are the same quality.
The easiest, simplest and smartest way is to apply rubberized liquid membrane. Liquid rubber membranes are elastomeric polymerized coatings made from liquid rubber – the same quality tough material your car tires are made from.
Advantages: They are easiest to apply, quick to dry, cold applied. You can do it by yourself, by using sprayer, roller or trowel. The liquid cures into an elastic rubber coating on the wall, able to fill up eventual cracks in foundation wall because of its flexibility. They also come with a long warranty and are very cost effective.
If you want the best ones you should aim at the ones which are environmentally friendly, non-toxic, non-flammable, also VOC compliant, offer superior vapor and water barrier protection, and no priming is required before installation.
Disadvantages: Possibility of inconsistency in coverage, but the newest liquid rubber foundation waterproofing membranes will help you to determine the "right" thickness by intensity of color f.e. the Gray Coat All Seasons Formula from Aquasealusa.com blends in with the concrete foundation, so over-spraying is no longer a problem, making it much easier for the applicator to apply.
There are of course other products on the market like sheet membranes, cementitous waterproofing, hot tar or bentonite, but they either don’t offer such a long warranty, are labor intensive or low quality, or you have to use company employees/certified technicians who are the only ones allowed to apply their product which will cost extra money.
Basically it comes what your needs are and how much money your are willing to invest to protect your property properly.
What seems to be cheaper at the beginning can be Very costly later on if you don’t do it right the first time.
© Dagmar Rakos
Waterproofing-foundation-guaranteed.com
About The Author
Dagmar Rakos is the site Administrator for Waterproofing-Foundation-guaranteed.com
Highly effective, easy to apply foundation, basement and specialty waterproofing products for ICF and standard construction. For home builders and waterproofing contractors.
Available at http://www.waterproofing-foundation-guaranteed.com.com.
What is foundation waterproofing?
Waterproofing is Protecting your property foundation – be it residential or commercial – from cracks due to natural processes such as water damage, thermal movement, shrinking, settlement and other causes.
Think of foundation waterproofing as a long term solution for protection of your property.
Did you know that 44% of new homes have leaking basements without 3 years of completion? And the warranty on dry basement on a new home in USA and Canada is only 1 or 2 years?
Think of what can happen if you don’t pay attention to properly seal your house foundation.
It not only causes countless damage to your property it also decreases value of your house, costs money to repair, wastes time, not to mention various health and life hazards.
So what is the Solution to this problem?
Waterproof your property the right way as you build it!
There are many products on the market and it is difficult to choose at times, but not all are the same quality.
The easiest, simplest and smartest way is to apply rubberized liquid membrane. Liquid rubber membranes are elastomeric polymerized coatings made from liquid rubber – the same quality tough material your car tires are made from.
Advantages: They are easiest to apply, quick to dry, cold applied. You can do it by yourself, by using sprayer, roller or trowel. The liquid cures into an elastic rubber coating on the wall, able to fill up eventual cracks in foundation wall because of its flexibility. They also come with a long warranty and are very cost effective.
If you want the best ones you should aim at the ones which are environmentally friendly, non-toxic, non-flammable, also VOC compliant, offer superior vapor and water barrier protection, and no priming is required before installation.
Disadvantages: Possibility of inconsistency in coverage, but the newest liquid rubber foundation waterproofing membranes will help you to determine the "right" thickness by intensity of color f.e. the Gray Coat All Seasons Formula from Aquasealusa.com blends in with the concrete foundation, so over-spraying is no longer a problem, making it much easier for the applicator to apply.
There are of course other products on the market like sheet membranes, cementitous waterproofing, hot tar or bentonite, but they either don’t offer such a long warranty, are labor intensive or low quality, or you have to use company employees/certified technicians who are the only ones allowed to apply their product which will cost extra money.
Basically it comes what your needs are and how much money your are willing to invest to protect your property properly.
What seems to be cheaper at the beginning can be Very costly later on if you don’t do it right the first time.
© Dagmar Rakos
Waterproofing-foundation-guaranteed.com
About The Author
Dagmar Rakos is the site Administrator for Waterproofing-Foundation-guaranteed.com
Highly effective, easy to apply foundation, basement and specialty waterproofing products for ICF and standard construction. For home builders and waterproofing contractors.
Available at http://www.waterproofing-foundation-guaranteed.com.com.
Your Guide to Wireless Security Cameras
by: Bob Hett
The use of wireless security cameras has been gaining in popularity over recent years. This can be for many reasons. Some people use wireless security cameras to make their home secure and to monitor their home. Other people use them to monitor their nannies or their employees. Some people use it for surveillance of their store or office. Whatever the reason may be, wireless security cameras are quickly becoming the preferred method of security for many people. If you would like more information, then let this be your guide to wireless security cameras.
Wireless security cameras are so popular because you can literally put them anywhere you want because you don't have to worry about wires. The placement of them is very flexible and they are very easy to install. They are also quite inexpensive to purchase and many come with warranties. The only drawback is that wireless security cameras require that you change the battery pack on them every 4 to 8 hours. The battery packs can be recharged so it is best to have more than one so you can easily change them out.
Wireless security cameras work by sending video signals to a receiver via a transmitter in the wireless camera. The receiver can be connected to a TV, VCR, computer, etc. No wires are needed between the camera and the receiver. The receiver can be placed anywhere from 700 feet to 10 miles away from the wireless camera. It just depends on which wireless security camera model you buy. The receivers can penetrate as much as 8 walls. They also penetrate most solid objects such as: glass, plastic, wood, fiber glass, and some metals. This is an added benefit for people when they want to place the camera in a certain spot.
If you have trouble viewing the wireless security camera image, you may have to move the camera a bit. Sometimes moving it just a few feet can make a huge difference in what you see. You also have to pay attention to what kind of material the signal has to travel through. The denser the material, the weaker the signal will be. It is usually best to have the receiver positioned hire than the camera. This will give you the best range.
The above was all of the important information you should know about wireless security cameras. If you are considering getting a wireless security camera, you will be glad to have known all of this information. A wireless security camera is a cheap and effective way to monitor anything and to help you feel more secure. It will give you peace of mind and leave you feeling glad you decided to purchase a wireless security camera.
About The Author
Bob Hett offers expert advice and great tips regarding all aspects concerning Security Cameras and home safety. Get the information you are seeking now by visiting http://www.securitycamerasreview.info
The use of wireless security cameras has been gaining in popularity over recent years. This can be for many reasons. Some people use wireless security cameras to make their home secure and to monitor their home. Other people use them to monitor their nannies or their employees. Some people use it for surveillance of their store or office. Whatever the reason may be, wireless security cameras are quickly becoming the preferred method of security for many people. If you would like more information, then let this be your guide to wireless security cameras.
Wireless security cameras are so popular because you can literally put them anywhere you want because you don't have to worry about wires. The placement of them is very flexible and they are very easy to install. They are also quite inexpensive to purchase and many come with warranties. The only drawback is that wireless security cameras require that you change the battery pack on them every 4 to 8 hours. The battery packs can be recharged so it is best to have more than one so you can easily change them out.
Wireless security cameras work by sending video signals to a receiver via a transmitter in the wireless camera. The receiver can be connected to a TV, VCR, computer, etc. No wires are needed between the camera and the receiver. The receiver can be placed anywhere from 700 feet to 10 miles away from the wireless camera. It just depends on which wireless security camera model you buy. The receivers can penetrate as much as 8 walls. They also penetrate most solid objects such as: glass, plastic, wood, fiber glass, and some metals. This is an added benefit for people when they want to place the camera in a certain spot.
If you have trouble viewing the wireless security camera image, you may have to move the camera a bit. Sometimes moving it just a few feet can make a huge difference in what you see. You also have to pay attention to what kind of material the signal has to travel through. The denser the material, the weaker the signal will be. It is usually best to have the receiver positioned hire than the camera. This will give you the best range.
The above was all of the important information you should know about wireless security cameras. If you are considering getting a wireless security camera, you will be glad to have known all of this information. A wireless security camera is a cheap and effective way to monitor anything and to help you feel more secure. It will give you peace of mind and leave you feeling glad you decided to purchase a wireless security camera.
About The Author
Bob Hett offers expert advice and great tips regarding all aspects concerning Security Cameras and home safety. Get the information you are seeking now by visiting http://www.securitycamerasreview.info
Monday, April 10, 2006
Your New Appliances - What to Keep in Mind Before You Go Shopping!
Most of your budget will likely go towards the things you just can’t live without such as a sink, dishwasher and refrigerator. Therefore, selecting quality appliances that will give you the most for your money is essential!
With the abundance of brands, styles, colors and technologically advanced machines, it’s hard to weed out the good and the bad and pick what’s best for you. Luckily, we put together a few guidelines to make this process much easier!
Dishwasher – Look for brands with low energy consumption, a delay timer and an economy cycle or half-load button, all which will result in saving water and saving money.
Refrigerator – One feature worth paying for is a new design to prevent frost build-up. By circulating air inside the freezer compartment rather than using a defroster, you can say goodbye to freezer burn!
Sink – Materials include stainless steel, which can withstand more abrasions and is hygienic and trendy, and fireclay and ceramic which are more traditional for their solidity and wide range of colors.
Oven – Multi-functional ovens may be worth the investment. Traditional cooking and fan assisted cooking and grilling are increasingly popular. The combination also provides cooks with more options such as browning and thawing.
Range – Ranges are either free-standing or built-in. Picking one out depends on the design of your kitchen and the features you want. Worthwhile accessories include a cooker hood, splashback, grill, griddle plates, rotisserie, wok burner and fish-kettle burner.
Taps – A cost-efficient option is the three-way or tri-flow taps which take away the need for bottled water or other purification system. New models also offer dual-flow for hot and cold filtered water.
Countertops – Formica and Corian are some of the most common surfacing materials, however new trends such as Luxore®, a non-porous heat and chip resistant stone, and Swanstone®, a reinforced surface with seamless joints which is moisture resistant and requires no fabricated edges, are becoming increasing popular.
Flooring – The cost of installing can be as much as the material and harder options such as tile can be tiresome to stand on too long. Softer, more absorbent materials include cork, carpet or vinyl and most of the time, are much cheaper.
Original Article @ Home Appliances
With the abundance of brands, styles, colors and technologically advanced machines, it’s hard to weed out the good and the bad and pick what’s best for you. Luckily, we put together a few guidelines to make this process much easier!
Dishwasher – Look for brands with low energy consumption, a delay timer and an economy cycle or half-load button, all which will result in saving water and saving money.
Refrigerator – One feature worth paying for is a new design to prevent frost build-up. By circulating air inside the freezer compartment rather than using a defroster, you can say goodbye to freezer burn!
Sink – Materials include stainless steel, which can withstand more abrasions and is hygienic and trendy, and fireclay and ceramic which are more traditional for their solidity and wide range of colors.
Oven – Multi-functional ovens may be worth the investment. Traditional cooking and fan assisted cooking and grilling are increasingly popular. The combination also provides cooks with more options such as browning and thawing.
Range – Ranges are either free-standing or built-in. Picking one out depends on the design of your kitchen and the features you want. Worthwhile accessories include a cooker hood, splashback, grill, griddle plates, rotisserie, wok burner and fish-kettle burner.
Taps – A cost-efficient option is the three-way or tri-flow taps which take away the need for bottled water or other purification system. New models also offer dual-flow for hot and cold filtered water.
Countertops – Formica and Corian are some of the most common surfacing materials, however new trends such as Luxore®, a non-porous heat and chip resistant stone, and Swanstone®, a reinforced surface with seamless joints which is moisture resistant and requires no fabricated edges, are becoming increasing popular.
Flooring – The cost of installing can be as much as the material and harder options such as tile can be tiresome to stand on too long. Softer, more absorbent materials include cork, carpet or vinyl and most of the time, are much cheaper.
Original Article @ Home Appliances
Sunday, April 09, 2006
“Building a Home is Not Rocket Science…”
Building a home is not rocket science, but it is a very involved,complex, process that can quickly turn a dream home into nightmare.
I can't blame anyone for trying to save money, we builders charge more than most folks want to pay, but the real question is can you really save enough money to make it worth your effort?
Builders receive discounts on labor and materials that the one-time owner-builder will never be able to negotiate. Those of us who are any good at this tend to make fewer mistakes and we have a lot of experience that can save money on the job too.
Not only that but we have software and other systems that can make a very complex process much more manageable and predictable. Finally we have a lot of experience dealing with zoning boards, architectural review committees, building officials, etc...
Does every homeowner experience this type of nightmare? No! Some folks actually do a pretty good job. But ask one if he or she would ever do it again. The vast majority would answer, "No."
The best suggestion I can offer is to do some serious research so you know as much as possible before you build. Visit your local library and do some serious reading about the home building process.
Visit the homes of other people who have built their own homes. Walk through model homes and neighborhoods similar to what you are looking to build and talk to as many people as possible before you make a decision.
Some books suggest that you can save in the neighborhood of 25% by acting as your own general contractor. However, since the average professional builder probably realizes an actual profit on a new home in the 5 - 10% range (if they don't make many mistakes), you will need to keep in mind that there are other factors involved. How much is your time really worth, and how much will the mistakes you make end up costing you?
Original article @ Home Building
I can't blame anyone for trying to save money, we builders charge more than most folks want to pay, but the real question is can you really save enough money to make it worth your effort?
Builders receive discounts on labor and materials that the one-time owner-builder will never be able to negotiate. Those of us who are any good at this tend to make fewer mistakes and we have a lot of experience that can save money on the job too.
Not only that but we have software and other systems that can make a very complex process much more manageable and predictable. Finally we have a lot of experience dealing with zoning boards, architectural review committees, building officials, etc...
Does every homeowner experience this type of nightmare? No! Some folks actually do a pretty good job. But ask one if he or she would ever do it again. The vast majority would answer, "No."
The best suggestion I can offer is to do some serious research so you know as much as possible before you build. Visit your local library and do some serious reading about the home building process.
Visit the homes of other people who have built their own homes. Walk through model homes and neighborhoods similar to what you are looking to build and talk to as many people as possible before you make a decision.
Some books suggest that you can save in the neighborhood of 25% by acting as your own general contractor. However, since the average professional builder probably realizes an actual profit on a new home in the 5 - 10% range (if they don't make many mistakes), you will need to keep in mind that there are other factors involved. How much is your time really worth, and how much will the mistakes you make end up costing you?
Original article @ Home Building
Thursday, April 06, 2006
Home Mortgage Financing
ICFhome.ca and "The Mortgage Store" have joined forces to give you the best possible home mortgage financing and home buying solution.
We work for you, not the bank, or we help overcome any issues on your behalf in finding you the best possible solution.
Generally speaking, rates can only be guaranteed for up to 120 days or 4 months, so if it takes longer than that to complete the home then the rate can change.
One of the many benefits of using our services is that we monitor your file and make periodic requests to extend the guaranteed mortgage rate, so as to protect you as much as possible in a rising interest rate environment.
Equally as important, we offer you a choice of over 100 mortgage products from 30 different lenders, and we package up your application for you and shop for the best rate and terms possible, in most cases better than what you can obtain from your bank.
If your credit is acceptable, then there is no charge for our services because the lender will pay us what is know as a ‘finder’s fee’. If however, you are not ‘bankable’ and are considered a non prime borrower, then (in most cases) we can still find you home mortgage financing but a fee may apply for our services.
If you have never used a mortgage broker, then perhaps it’s time you did, because you have nothing to lose and everything to gain. Our industry now originates 1 in every 3 mortgages in Canada, and within ten years that statistic will be 3 of 4 just like to USA.
Aside from more products to choose from (many with better repayment terms), you will receive invaluable, unbiased professional advice (you will not get from your bank) and personalized service that is ‘second to none’. The bottom line? Less hassle, better service, and a better end result for you.
Original Article: http://www.ontario-home-builder.com/Get_Financing.html
We work for you, not the bank, or we help overcome any issues on your behalf in finding you the best possible solution.
Generally speaking, rates can only be guaranteed for up to 120 days or 4 months, so if it takes longer than that to complete the home then the rate can change.
One of the many benefits of using our services is that we monitor your file and make periodic requests to extend the guaranteed mortgage rate, so as to protect you as much as possible in a rising interest rate environment.
Equally as important, we offer you a choice of over 100 mortgage products from 30 different lenders, and we package up your application for you and shop for the best rate and terms possible, in most cases better than what you can obtain from your bank.
If your credit is acceptable, then there is no charge for our services because the lender will pay us what is know as a ‘finder’s fee’. If however, you are not ‘bankable’ and are considered a non prime borrower, then (in most cases) we can still find you home mortgage financing but a fee may apply for our services.
If you have never used a mortgage broker, then perhaps it’s time you did, because you have nothing to lose and everything to gain. Our industry now originates 1 in every 3 mortgages in Canada, and within ten years that statistic will be 3 of 4 just like to USA.
Aside from more products to choose from (many with better repayment terms), you will receive invaluable, unbiased professional advice (you will not get from your bank) and personalized service that is ‘second to none’. The bottom line? Less hassle, better service, and a better end result for you.
Original Article: http://www.ontario-home-builder.com/Get_Financing.html
Wednesday, March 29, 2006
How Much Does It Cost to Build With Insulated Concrete Blocks?
If you've ever tried to nail down a hard answer on this subject, you're probably already familiar with the wide range of estimates out there.
In an effort to make your search a little easier, we've taken a look at the major reports on ICF costs throughout USA and Canada and boiled them down to the basics.
One thing that makes cost comparisons difficult is the fact that ICF blocks costs are usually measured in square feet of wall area, while wood frame costs are measured in square feet of floor area.
Depending on the study, you might see ICFs converted to relate to floor area, so it's a good idea to keep track of what's being measured to avoid any confusion.
Another thing to keep in mind is that different studies use different costs. Some give what the general contractor paid (referred to as builder's costs or total house cost) while others give what the general contractor charges to install ICF blocks (referred to as sales price).
Let's take a look at some numbers:
A Portland Cement Association technology brief drawing from work done by VanderWerf, Feige, Chammas, and Lemay (Insulating Concrete Forms for Residential Design and Construction, 1997) concluded ICF blocks cost builders about .5-4% per square foot of floor area more than wood frame houses of the same design.
At the time of the study, typical US homes cost the builder about $80-$120 per square foot of floor area, so using ICFs added about a $1.00-5.00 premium to this figure.
This held true only for homes built by experienced contractors (who've built at least 4 to 5 houses).
Along similar lines, the NAHB Research Center's Demonstration Homes Project also evaluated the use of ICFs in residential construction in 1997.
They experienced up to an 8% increase in total house cost, adding about 1-5% to the final price for the buyers. The NAHB's Tool-Base report found that ICF Blocks increased builder's cost by $0.75-4.00 per square foot of floor area compared to wood frame construction.
And in 1998, a study by HUD, PCA, and NAHB compared the cost and performance of ICF walls to conventional wood-frame exterior walls again. They found that labour costs for ICFs were slightly to moderately higher, and that total installed costs averaged about $2.73 per square foot of floor area more than the wood frame home. This translated to an increase in builder's cost of 6% to 7%, or roughly a 3% increase in the builder's sales price.
The Bottom Line...
So where do all those studies leave us? The bottom line is this: ICFs usually cost slightly more than wood frame. But by how much depends. There are so many potential influences on cost that it's tough to nail down a solid estimate.
Here's why: concrete, lumber and foam prices, ICF form prices, lumber prices, exterior finishes, design features, crew experience, labour markets, and engineering all influence the cost of the intended project.
Results from the NAHB Research Center's Demonstration Homes Project showed that total costs for construction of ICF foundation walls can be less than that for poured walls.
One ICF system had total costs of $1.25 per square foot of house floor area compared to $1.27 per square foot of house floor area for the block wall based on the construction of a short (~ two-foot) "stem wall."
An added cost of $2.50 per square foot of floor area seems to be in the middle of most of these ranges. But take that figure lightly; construction with ICFs can increase builder's costs much less or more. It's easy to see why there's been so much debate on this issue.
All this being said, ICFs do have major cost savings opportunities. Because ICF construction is more energy efficient, HVAC systems can be downsized and those savings offset part of the cost difference.
Using Stucco as your exterior finish will also reduce some of the cost since the base required for stucco installation is already set up.
Most builders report fewer customer service calls on their ICF homes
ICF homeowners enjoy lower utility bills, better sound proofing, and durability. Some have estimated that the monthly savings provide a good payback on the initial investment. And then you have the benefits of a stronger, quieter, more comfortable home.
In Conclusion:
The cost of ICF vs. more traditional methods of construction is typically more for the actual construction, but the cost of ownership of an ICF structure is significantly less than the more traditional methods. In nearly every documented case of the cost of an ICF structure, the return on investment (ROI) for the extra construction cost is within 5 years with many showing less than 3 years.
Depending how costs are viewed, ICF blocks may cost a little more or significantly less to build and operate.
Original Article @ http://www.ontario-home-builder.com/ICF_Blocks.html
In an effort to make your search a little easier, we've taken a look at the major reports on ICF costs throughout USA and Canada and boiled them down to the basics.
One thing that makes cost comparisons difficult is the fact that ICF blocks costs are usually measured in square feet of wall area, while wood frame costs are measured in square feet of floor area.
Depending on the study, you might see ICFs converted to relate to floor area, so it's a good idea to keep track of what's being measured to avoid any confusion.
Another thing to keep in mind is that different studies use different costs. Some give what the general contractor paid (referred to as builder's costs or total house cost) while others give what the general contractor charges to install ICF blocks (referred to as sales price).
Let's take a look at some numbers:
A Portland Cement Association technology brief drawing from work done by VanderWerf, Feige, Chammas, and Lemay (Insulating Concrete Forms for Residential Design and Construction, 1997) concluded ICF blocks cost builders about .5-4% per square foot of floor area more than wood frame houses of the same design.
At the time of the study, typical US homes cost the builder about $80-$120 per square foot of floor area, so using ICFs added about a $1.00-5.00 premium to this figure.
This held true only for homes built by experienced contractors (who've built at least 4 to 5 houses).
Along similar lines, the NAHB Research Center's Demonstration Homes Project also evaluated the use of ICFs in residential construction in 1997.
They experienced up to an 8% increase in total house cost, adding about 1-5% to the final price for the buyers. The NAHB's Tool-Base report found that ICF Blocks increased builder's cost by $0.75-4.00 per square foot of floor area compared to wood frame construction.
And in 1998, a study by HUD, PCA, and NAHB compared the cost and performance of ICF walls to conventional wood-frame exterior walls again. They found that labour costs for ICFs were slightly to moderately higher, and that total installed costs averaged about $2.73 per square foot of floor area more than the wood frame home. This translated to an increase in builder's cost of 6% to 7%, or roughly a 3% increase in the builder's sales price.
The Bottom Line...
So where do all those studies leave us? The bottom line is this: ICFs usually cost slightly more than wood frame. But by how much depends. There are so many potential influences on cost that it's tough to nail down a solid estimate.
Here's why: concrete, lumber and foam prices, ICF form prices, lumber prices, exterior finishes, design features, crew experience, labour markets, and engineering all influence the cost of the intended project.
Results from the NAHB Research Center's Demonstration Homes Project showed that total costs for construction of ICF foundation walls can be less than that for poured walls.
One ICF system had total costs of $1.25 per square foot of house floor area compared to $1.27 per square foot of house floor area for the block wall based on the construction of a short (~ two-foot) "stem wall."
An added cost of $2.50 per square foot of floor area seems to be in the middle of most of these ranges. But take that figure lightly; construction with ICFs can increase builder's costs much less or more. It's easy to see why there's been so much debate on this issue.
All this being said, ICFs do have major cost savings opportunities. Because ICF construction is more energy efficient, HVAC systems can be downsized and those savings offset part of the cost difference.
Using Stucco as your exterior finish will also reduce some of the cost since the base required for stucco installation is already set up.
Most builders report fewer customer service calls on their ICF homes
ICF homeowners enjoy lower utility bills, better sound proofing, and durability. Some have estimated that the monthly savings provide a good payback on the initial investment. And then you have the benefits of a stronger, quieter, more comfortable home.
In Conclusion:
The cost of ICF vs. more traditional methods of construction is typically more for the actual construction, but the cost of ownership of an ICF structure is significantly less than the more traditional methods. In nearly every documented case of the cost of an ICF structure, the return on investment (ROI) for the extra construction cost is within 5 years with many showing less than 3 years.
Depending how costs are viewed, ICF blocks may cost a little more or significantly less to build and operate.
Original Article @ http://www.ontario-home-builder.com/ICF_Blocks.html
Tuesday, March 28, 2006
A builder may pour the foundation and raise the roof, but only you can make your new house a home.
When the building of a new house or a major remodeling project comes in over budget, many homeowners conclude that they can get the bottom line back to where they want it if they purchase some of the big ticket items themselves and avoid paying the builder's mark-up.
From the owners' perspective, this looks like a sound strategy. They won't have to make some hard choices and reconsider those longed for but pricey features such as the skylights that open and close by remote control.
But most new home builders hate it when owners supply materials. Besides the fact that they make less money, such an arrangement creates headaches for all parties, causes delays and rarely saves owners as much money as they assume.
Can You Really Save Anything?
If owners insist on supplying some of the big ticket items "to save a buck," most builders are very reluctant to take on the job. From their perspective, such a cost-cutting tactic reflects a fundamental misunderstanding of what the builder's mark-up covers: A professional builder expects profit and reward for his efforts and, more critically, from his time and overhead to do a very complicated job correctly.
The builder orchestrates the construction process. He arranges for the purchase and delivery of several hundred items in a precisely ordered sequence. He schedules as many as thirty subcontracting trades to work with the materials as they are delivered, and he supervises the subcontractors to insure that their work is done correctly.
Each delivery of material must be coordinated with many other ones; it has to arrive at the right time, intact, and with all required parts so that the subcontractor can do his job. This can be a time consuming process. A contractor can spend half his time getting all the stuff to the site.
Though purchasing a plumbing fixture or kitchen cabinets seems easy enough, most owners don't know what's required.
With plumbing fixtures, for example, they buy the plumbing fixture, but they don't get the accessory parts needed to install it, such as a waste and overflow for the bathtub.
Then the headaches begin. "If a part for something that an owner purchased is missing, who will run out to get it? If the plumber goes to get the part, he will charge for this. If builder gets it, he won't get paid for his time--that's part of what the mark-up covers.
Even such seemingly straightforward purchases as bathroom tile can become headaches because owners don't know what trim and accent pieces are required. "It's time consuming for an owner. After the second or third trip to the tile guy, owners begin to appreciate the know-how of the general contractor and his network of subcontractors that the mark up pays for.
Besides covering the time spent in trips back and forth to suppliers, the builder's mark-up provides him with some margin to cover losses when materials are damaged at the job site.
If an owner purchases kitchen cabinets and the builder installs them, what happens if one is dropped and damaged?
Besides the likelihood of slowing down the job and irritating the builder, clients don't save as much money as they think they will when they purchase things themselves, The client says, 'I can get a designer discount,' but how well is the person connected? The average person doesn't have access to a professional discount.
Besides, the discounts are like used cars--there's no standard discount. The client won't get as good a discount as the builder will get unless their uncle owns the store.
Besides purchasing materials themselves, some owners try to save money by using subcontractors who are friends, but an owner-supplied sub can be worse than owner-supplied items. For example, the friend may be moonlighting and only do extra work on the weekends, which slows down the job.
The friend can also be less competent or experienced than the homeowner realizes.
Besides this, most subs will pick the easiest way to get a job done and this can make it difficult for the next trades person. A homeowner won't know this, but a builder will.
"That $15-an-hour electrician roughs in outlet boxes but places them too close to the doors and windows. The trim carpenter can't trim or must cut the trim to fit around the box. Another example, the bathroom cabinets are ordered and installed but they are too close to the toilet joist and the plumber says, 'no way I can put the toilet in there!'"
Our advice: at the outset of the job, owners have to accept that "certain things cost. The plumber will get $45 to $50 per hour; the owner pays twenty per cent more for me to get the guy there on time and to do the job right."
After the job is finished and the house is built, owners may discover yet another reason that purchasing items themselves doesn't pay in the long run. A home builder will warrant and repair items that he purchases; part of his mark-up also covers his time for this. But if the owner-supplied skylights that are supposed to open and close with a switch won't work properly, the builder can say with some justification, "that's not my problem."
From the owners' perspective, this looks like a sound strategy. They won't have to make some hard choices and reconsider those longed for but pricey features such as the skylights that open and close by remote control.
But most new home builders hate it when owners supply materials. Besides the fact that they make less money, such an arrangement creates headaches for all parties, causes delays and rarely saves owners as much money as they assume.
Can You Really Save Anything?
If owners insist on supplying some of the big ticket items "to save a buck," most builders are very reluctant to take on the job. From their perspective, such a cost-cutting tactic reflects a fundamental misunderstanding of what the builder's mark-up covers: A professional builder expects profit and reward for his efforts and, more critically, from his time and overhead to do a very complicated job correctly.
The builder orchestrates the construction process. He arranges for the purchase and delivery of several hundred items in a precisely ordered sequence. He schedules as many as thirty subcontracting trades to work with the materials as they are delivered, and he supervises the subcontractors to insure that their work is done correctly.
Each delivery of material must be coordinated with many other ones; it has to arrive at the right time, intact, and with all required parts so that the subcontractor can do his job. This can be a time consuming process. A contractor can spend half his time getting all the stuff to the site.
Though purchasing a plumbing fixture or kitchen cabinets seems easy enough, most owners don't know what's required.
With plumbing fixtures, for example, they buy the plumbing fixture, but they don't get the accessory parts needed to install it, such as a waste and overflow for the bathtub.
Then the headaches begin. "If a part for something that an owner purchased is missing, who will run out to get it? If the plumber goes to get the part, he will charge for this. If builder gets it, he won't get paid for his time--that's part of what the mark-up covers.
Even such seemingly straightforward purchases as bathroom tile can become headaches because owners don't know what trim and accent pieces are required. "It's time consuming for an owner. After the second or third trip to the tile guy, owners begin to appreciate the know-how of the general contractor and his network of subcontractors that the mark up pays for.
Besides covering the time spent in trips back and forth to suppliers, the builder's mark-up provides him with some margin to cover losses when materials are damaged at the job site.
If an owner purchases kitchen cabinets and the builder installs them, what happens if one is dropped and damaged?
Besides the likelihood of slowing down the job and irritating the builder, clients don't save as much money as they think they will when they purchase things themselves, The client says, 'I can get a designer discount,' but how well is the person connected? The average person doesn't have access to a professional discount.
Besides, the discounts are like used cars--there's no standard discount. The client won't get as good a discount as the builder will get unless their uncle owns the store.
Besides purchasing materials themselves, some owners try to save money by using subcontractors who are friends, but an owner-supplied sub can be worse than owner-supplied items. For example, the friend may be moonlighting and only do extra work on the weekends, which slows down the job.
The friend can also be less competent or experienced than the homeowner realizes.
Besides this, most subs will pick the easiest way to get a job done and this can make it difficult for the next trades person. A homeowner won't know this, but a builder will.
"That $15-an-hour electrician roughs in outlet boxes but places them too close to the doors and windows. The trim carpenter can't trim or must cut the trim to fit around the box. Another example, the bathroom cabinets are ordered and installed but they are too close to the toilet joist and the plumber says, 'no way I can put the toilet in there!'"
Our advice: at the outset of the job, owners have to accept that "certain things cost. The plumber will get $45 to $50 per hour; the owner pays twenty per cent more for me to get the guy there on time and to do the job right."
After the job is finished and the house is built, owners may discover yet another reason that purchasing items themselves doesn't pay in the long run. A home builder will warrant and repair items that he purchases; part of his mark-up also covers his time for this. But if the owner-supplied skylights that are supposed to open and close with a switch won't work properly, the builder can say with some justification, "that's not my problem."
Saturday, March 18, 2006
HEALTHY HOMES - A Must For Our Children's Futures!
Home may be where the heart is but it's also where you'll find dust mites, paint, asbestos, mould and mildew, off-gassing synthetic carpeting, plywood with heavy formaldehyde concentration, radon gas and mould spores -- indoor air pollutants that can cause problems ranging from sneezing and skin rashes to severe breathing problems, cancer, and even death.
Healthy homes are part of the "green building" movement in this country - We don't want office buildings that make us sick, and we don't want a home that makes us uncomfortable or ill.
A few of the improvements in the house building industry include the fact that lead based house paints have been banned since 1980, and asbestos (used for insulation and as fireproof wall barriers) since 1986. Urea formaldehyde based insulation can no longer be used in houses, and formaldehyde emissions from urea formaldehyde bonded hardwood plywood are far lower than it was 10 years ago.
More homebuyers want electronic and non-electronic high-efficiency air cleaners. And where some builders used to give their new house customers a lovely houseplant as a thank you gift, many give a duct-cleaning gift certificate as a thank you instead, since so many people want their ducts cleaned before they move in.
In addition to duct cleaning homeowners wanting healthier houses are opting for hardwood floors in the bedrooms, which can be easier to clean and have no out-gassing like synthetic carpeting, and one-piece fiberglass tub enclosures that eliminate mold and mildew.
Chemically sensitive individuals or others with allergies may opt for cabinets made from solid wood and galvanized steel, stainless steel kitchen countertops with welded and polished seams, central vacuum systems, outdoor exhaust, and copper water lines that are joined with lead-free solder.
The myth that building a green house can cost a great deal more is not true. Some homes don't cost anything more; others can add an additional 25%. But balance that with the money spent on the medical and insurance expenses for problems caused by an unhealthy home and the costs are well justified.
It has been said that we shape our buildings, and then our buildings shape us. When we consider that the average North American spends at least 90% of life indoors, the significance of this statement becomes apparent...
Original article at Healthy Home
Healthy homes are part of the "green building" movement in this country - We don't want office buildings that make us sick, and we don't want a home that makes us uncomfortable or ill.
A few of the improvements in the house building industry include the fact that lead based house paints have been banned since 1980, and asbestos (used for insulation and as fireproof wall barriers) since 1986. Urea formaldehyde based insulation can no longer be used in houses, and formaldehyde emissions from urea formaldehyde bonded hardwood plywood are far lower than it was 10 years ago.
More homebuyers want electronic and non-electronic high-efficiency air cleaners. And where some builders used to give their new house customers a lovely houseplant as a thank you gift, many give a duct-cleaning gift certificate as a thank you instead, since so many people want their ducts cleaned before they move in.
In addition to duct cleaning homeowners wanting healthier houses are opting for hardwood floors in the bedrooms, which can be easier to clean and have no out-gassing like synthetic carpeting, and one-piece fiberglass tub enclosures that eliminate mold and mildew.
Chemically sensitive individuals or others with allergies may opt for cabinets made from solid wood and galvanized steel, stainless steel kitchen countertops with welded and polished seams, central vacuum systems, outdoor exhaust, and copper water lines that are joined with lead-free solder.
The myth that building a green house can cost a great deal more is not true. Some homes don't cost anything more; others can add an additional 25%. But balance that with the money spent on the medical and insurance expenses for problems caused by an unhealthy home and the costs are well justified.
It has been said that we shape our buildings, and then our buildings shape us. When we consider that the average North American spends at least 90% of life indoors, the significance of this statement becomes apparent...
Original article at Healthy Home
Monday, February 27, 2006
Tankless Hot Water Heaters
Hot water heating accounts for about 20% (or more) of the average North American household’s annual energy costs. With energy prices rising day by day it is becoming important to take a closer look at where the money is going.
The average yearly cost for a conventional gas or electric storage hot water heater is approximately $500 for a 1300sq.ft. 4 member family home. It lowers or increases depending on how many people live in the house and on their particular water usage habits.
Conventional hot water heaters store water and maintain the water temperature to the temperature setting on the tank - usually between 120° and 140° F. That means keeping water hot even when you do not need it - while you are at work; while you are sleeping; while you are away on holidays.
These “standby” losses represent 15% to 25% of a household’s annual water heating costs.
Another thing that annoys all of us, is waiting for the water to heat up because someone took a bath before us. The storage tank water heaters only have a limited amount of hot water. After that is gone you have to wait for the tank to get heated again.
Throughout the rest of the world, where energy costs have consistently been higher than in North America, different methods of heating water are common.
Enter Tankless Hot Water Heaters. They began appearing in the United States and Canada about 25 years ago but have been used in Europe for the last 50 years.
Unlike "conventional" tank water heaters, tankless water heaters heat water only as it is used, or “on demand”. Opening a hot water faucet ignites the powerful burners and the computer monitors the water temperature and adjusts the burners according to the need. High demand, high heat. Low demand, low heat.
Because the efficiency rate of tankless water heaters is about 20% higher, averaging around 90% and going up to 96% and there is no stand by losses, savings on your energy bills are evident.
Some models even have the capacity to heat the house at the same time. With these tankless water heaters, which are connected either to radiant floor heat or to a heating coil in your furnace (air handler), you can bring high efficiency space heating capacities to every home.
Just imagine a contraption the size of your kitchen cabinet, heating your home and giving you an endless supply of potable hot water. You do not need a separate furnace and a separate hot water heater.
Some models can be mounted on the exterior of a home, freeing up valuable floor and closet space on the inside. The unit can be placed in a recessed box, flush-mounted and painted or textured to match the exterior of the home.
Tankless water heaters can also be used for supplementary heat, such as a booster to a solar hot water system, or snow melting systems, or to meet all your hot water needs.
The major players include: Takagi, Rheem, Noritz, Rinnai and up and coming Luna Baxi.
We would suggest researching different makes and models in order to make the right choice for your particular needs and circumstances.
The average yearly cost for a conventional gas or electric storage hot water heater is approximately $500 for a 1300sq.ft. 4 member family home. It lowers or increases depending on how many people live in the house and on their particular water usage habits.
Conventional hot water heaters store water and maintain the water temperature to the temperature setting on the tank - usually between 120° and 140° F. That means keeping water hot even when you do not need it - while you are at work; while you are sleeping; while you are away on holidays.
These “standby” losses represent 15% to 25% of a household’s annual water heating costs.
Another thing that annoys all of us, is waiting for the water to heat up because someone took a bath before us. The storage tank water heaters only have a limited amount of hot water. After that is gone you have to wait for the tank to get heated again.
Throughout the rest of the world, where energy costs have consistently been higher than in North America, different methods of heating water are common.
Enter Tankless Hot Water Heaters. They began appearing in the United States and Canada about 25 years ago but have been used in Europe for the last 50 years.
Unlike "conventional" tank water heaters, tankless water heaters heat water only as it is used, or “on demand”. Opening a hot water faucet ignites the powerful burners and the computer monitors the water temperature and adjusts the burners according to the need. High demand, high heat. Low demand, low heat.
Because the efficiency rate of tankless water heaters is about 20% higher, averaging around 90% and going up to 96% and there is no stand by losses, savings on your energy bills are evident.
Some models even have the capacity to heat the house at the same time. With these tankless water heaters, which are connected either to radiant floor heat or to a heating coil in your furnace (air handler), you can bring high efficiency space heating capacities to every home.
Just imagine a contraption the size of your kitchen cabinet, heating your home and giving you an endless supply of potable hot water. You do not need a separate furnace and a separate hot water heater.
Some models can be mounted on the exterior of a home, freeing up valuable floor and closet space on the inside. The unit can be placed in a recessed box, flush-mounted and painted or textured to match the exterior of the home.
Tankless water heaters can also be used for supplementary heat, such as a booster to a solar hot water system, or snow melting systems, or to meet all your hot water needs.
The major players include: Takagi, Rheem, Noritz, Rinnai and up and coming Luna Baxi.
We would suggest researching different makes and models in order to make the right choice for your particular needs and circumstances.
Monday, February 20, 2006
Ways To Heat Your Water...
Where you live, as well as the life style you lead, the number of people in your household, and where you’ll put the water heating system, you’ll need to factor these realities in if you’re going to purchase a new hot water system, or getting a back up system... more at: http://luxury-home.ca/Articles/Ways-To-Heat-Your-Water.htm
P.S. New Sites:
http://repairing-building-contractor.com
http://home-design.ca
http://insulated-concrete.com
P.S. New Sites:
http://repairing-building-contractor.com
http://home-design.ca
http://insulated-concrete.com
Tuesday, February 14, 2006
Is This Your Dream Home?
Are you aware that a new type of home exists that is guaranteed to change the way you live?
A home that is:
2X more energy efficient than a conventional wood-framed home.
3X more sound resistant than a wood-framed wall.
4X more fire resistant than a wood-framed wall.
9X stronger than a conventional wood-framed home.
It is a fact that today’s well-informed homeowners are looking for newer, more efficient ways to build homes. They want strength, comfort and lower energy bills, while also allowing for flexibility of design and lower future maintenance costs. Energy efficiency remains the quickest, cheapest and cleanest way to help lower home energy bills.
Building technology has advanced greatly. Quality builders are using ICF’s (Insulated Concrete Forms) to create homes that are safer, stronger and healthier than ever before. This type of building is based on simple, interlocking, stacking “blocks” made from flame-retardant expanded polystyrene (EPS) panels connected by molded-in high density polyethylene structural foam bridging. Filled with concrete, these blocks create a monolithic wall with a minimum insulation value of R25; which then because of the heat retaining properties of concrete increase their performance to R50. They also have a fire rating which is just under four hours. In addition to all this, there is an added bonus of efficiency because building the walls of a home with ICF’s can take one half of the time (or less) of conventional construction.
The really good news is that now everyone can afford to live in one of these homes; everyone who is concerned about future energy costs and their environment”.
The initial investment is only about 10% more than the old way of building (wood-frame); but considerably less when you think of the long term costs of energy and maintenance.
Adding other energy efficient features, such as High Efficiency Tank-Less Water Heaters that can heat your whole house while giving you an endless stream of hot water; High Efficiency Low-E Argon Windows, Heat Recovery Ventilators connected to an “Earth Energy” system that pre-conditions incoming air, and Radiant Floor Heating which gives you the ultimate in comfort with body temperature heated floors, can slash 50% off of a homeowner’s monthly heating and cooling bills.
Gone are the days of buying a home for appearance sake only. A little bit of effort and common sense can go a long way in making your home more energy-efficient. New homebuyers are consciously choosing to make informed decisions concerning their future and that of their family’s future. They are turning to homes which are more energy-efficient, and environmentally-friendly in addition to paying them dividends for years to come.
A home that is:
2X more energy efficient than a conventional wood-framed home.
3X more sound resistant than a wood-framed wall.
4X more fire resistant than a wood-framed wall.
9X stronger than a conventional wood-framed home.
It is a fact that today’s well-informed homeowners are looking for newer, more efficient ways to build homes. They want strength, comfort and lower energy bills, while also allowing for flexibility of design and lower future maintenance costs. Energy efficiency remains the quickest, cheapest and cleanest way to help lower home energy bills.
Building technology has advanced greatly. Quality builders are using ICF’s (Insulated Concrete Forms) to create homes that are safer, stronger and healthier than ever before. This type of building is based on simple, interlocking, stacking “blocks” made from flame-retardant expanded polystyrene (EPS) panels connected by molded-in high density polyethylene structural foam bridging. Filled with concrete, these blocks create a monolithic wall with a minimum insulation value of R25; which then because of the heat retaining properties of concrete increase their performance to R50. They also have a fire rating which is just under four hours. In addition to all this, there is an added bonus of efficiency because building the walls of a home with ICF’s can take one half of the time (or less) of conventional construction.
The really good news is that now everyone can afford to live in one of these homes; everyone who is concerned about future energy costs and their environment”.
The initial investment is only about 10% more than the old way of building (wood-frame); but considerably less when you think of the long term costs of energy and maintenance.
Adding other energy efficient features, such as High Efficiency Tank-Less Water Heaters that can heat your whole house while giving you an endless stream of hot water; High Efficiency Low-E Argon Windows, Heat Recovery Ventilators connected to an “Earth Energy” system that pre-conditions incoming air, and Radiant Floor Heating which gives you the ultimate in comfort with body temperature heated floors, can slash 50% off of a homeowner’s monthly heating and cooling bills.
Gone are the days of buying a home for appearance sake only. A little bit of effort and common sense can go a long way in making your home more energy-efficient. New homebuyers are consciously choosing to make informed decisions concerning their future and that of their family’s future. They are turning to homes which are more energy-efficient, and environmentally-friendly in addition to paying them dividends for years to come.
Monday, February 06, 2006
How to Choose the Best Floor Plan for Your House?
Floor plan should be designed to meet your needs as well as those of your family. First of all it should have an adequate square footage – not too much, so that you don’t have too much unused space and increased costs of maintenance, and not too small, so that you have privacy, and room for all family activities as well as entertainment.
Here are things to look for while designing your floor plan:
• Garage should be close to the kitchen, preferably next to it, so that you have an easy access to the refrigerator or pantry while carrying your groceries to the house. It makes your job much easier for garbage removal as well.
• Two-story house usually costs less to build than one-story.
• When you decide to build a bedroom above garage, be ready to live with the noise caused by the opening and closing of garage doors.
• You need enough room for storage. Most builders don’t pay significant amount of attention to this point, yet most homeowners complain about not having enough storage. You should make sure there is plenty of closets in the bedrooms, large enough pantry closet and closets for towels as well for the coats, by the main entrance door.
• Plan your traffic patterns ahead of time. Observe where you spend most of your time and plan accordingly. Try to avoid putting any obstacles or doors in the way of major traffic paths.
• Consider proper room layout for noise. You do not want to have a library or bedroom next to a playroom or close to the area where TV or stereo unit is.
• Place dining room next to the kitchen so that you can avoid unnecessary steps while serving meals to your guests or your family members.
• Include at least half a bath on the first floor when planning a two-story house.
• I often see bathrooms next to the kitchen in older homes. This is definitely a bad combination and something you should avoid at all costs.
• Walk-in pantry is a good selling point at present time but make sure it makes sense in your situation. Regular closets are often more economical and provide more storage.
• Plan carefully on where to put washer and dryer. It is a good idea to have them on the second floor, next to the master bedroom, in order to avoid going up and down the stairs with your laundry. Take the noise into consideration, though. Calculate extra plumbing costs as well. If it all makes sense, go ahead and do it.
• Certain areas of the house, like bedrooms and library should be isolated from sound as much as possible. You can accomplish this by arranging your floor plan properly as well as adding an extra insulation in the walls or floors and by installing solid-core doors with higher sound-proofing qualities.
• High ceilings are very fashionable at present but you have to decide for yourself if they fit both: your budget and tastes. High ceilings take away living space. The same space might be used for an extra bedroom. You have to decide if you are after esthetics or practicality.
• Do you want a basement or can you live without it? Adding a full basement is costly but you should be able to recoup the cost at the time of sale, especially if your house is in the area of homes with basements.
About The Author
Mark Badowski has been in real estate business for the last 21 years. He is a builder/developer in the Chicagoland area. He had worked in banking, real estate investments and sales. To learn more about the subject covered in this article you can visit his website at: http://www.real-estate-developer-homebuilder.com/house-plan.ht
Here are things to look for while designing your floor plan:
• Garage should be close to the kitchen, preferably next to it, so that you have an easy access to the refrigerator or pantry while carrying your groceries to the house. It makes your job much easier for garbage removal as well.
• Two-story house usually costs less to build than one-story.
• When you decide to build a bedroom above garage, be ready to live with the noise caused by the opening and closing of garage doors.
• You need enough room for storage. Most builders don’t pay significant amount of attention to this point, yet most homeowners complain about not having enough storage. You should make sure there is plenty of closets in the bedrooms, large enough pantry closet and closets for towels as well for the coats, by the main entrance door.
• Plan your traffic patterns ahead of time. Observe where you spend most of your time and plan accordingly. Try to avoid putting any obstacles or doors in the way of major traffic paths.
• Consider proper room layout for noise. You do not want to have a library or bedroom next to a playroom or close to the area where TV or stereo unit is.
• Place dining room next to the kitchen so that you can avoid unnecessary steps while serving meals to your guests or your family members.
• Include at least half a bath on the first floor when planning a two-story house.
• I often see bathrooms next to the kitchen in older homes. This is definitely a bad combination and something you should avoid at all costs.
• Walk-in pantry is a good selling point at present time but make sure it makes sense in your situation. Regular closets are often more economical and provide more storage.
• Plan carefully on where to put washer and dryer. It is a good idea to have them on the second floor, next to the master bedroom, in order to avoid going up and down the stairs with your laundry. Take the noise into consideration, though. Calculate extra plumbing costs as well. If it all makes sense, go ahead and do it.
• Certain areas of the house, like bedrooms and library should be isolated from sound as much as possible. You can accomplish this by arranging your floor plan properly as well as adding an extra insulation in the walls or floors and by installing solid-core doors with higher sound-proofing qualities.
• High ceilings are very fashionable at present but you have to decide for yourself if they fit both: your budget and tastes. High ceilings take away living space. The same space might be used for an extra bedroom. You have to decide if you are after esthetics or practicality.
• Do you want a basement or can you live without it? Adding a full basement is costly but you should be able to recoup the cost at the time of sale, especially if your house is in the area of homes with basements.
About The Author
Mark Badowski has been in real estate business for the last 21 years. He is a builder/developer in the Chicagoland area. He had worked in banking, real estate investments and sales. To learn more about the subject covered in this article you can visit his website at: http://www.real-estate-developer-homebuilder.com/house-plan.ht
Sunday, January 29, 2006
What You Should Know About Lead-Based Paint
Most houses and apartments built before 1978 contain lead-based paint. Lead-based paint produced before 1960 contains higher concentrations of lead than paint manufactured in later years. In fact, the older the home, the more likely it is to have lead-based paint hazards.
HUD and EPA estimate that at least 19 million homes in the U.S. have lead-based paint hazards, of which at least 4 million were occupied by families with young children under age 6 (HUD 1990; EPA 1995). Over time, homes with these specific conditions change, as families age or move, and as buildings deteriorate
Lead-based paint can be on walls, ceilings, woodwork, windows, and sometimes floors. When lead-based paint on these surfaces is broken, sanded, or scraped, it breaks into tiny, usually invisible, pieces that you or your child may swallow or inhale. Even small repair and renovation jobs, including repainting projects, can create enough lead dust and chips to harm you. If proper precautions are not taken, renovation, remodeling and maintenance, including repainting, can generate large amounts of lead-contaminated dust and soil.
Before You Repair or Renovate
BEFORE you disturb a surface with old paint on it, you should ...
• Contact a certified lead inspector or call your county health department or check your yellow pages under lead-paint detection services.
• If lead-based paint is found in your home, have the repair or renovation done by a contractor who has been trained in "lead-safe work practices."
If You Suspect That You Have Lead Paint . . .
AVOID the following activities, which can produce dust and chips:
• dry scraping, sanding, or using a heat gun on painted surfaces before repainting;
• making holes in walls to get at pipes, or tearing out walls;
• allowing furniture or other objects to bump against painted surfaces, or unnecessarily opening and closing windows and doors with painted frames and sills.
If You are Doing the Repair or Renovation
If you will do repairs or renovations yourself in areas where you know or suspect lead-based paint is present, you SHOULD:
• Move children and pregnant women to another apartment or house until work is completed and the area is properly cleaned.
• Seal off the work area with 6 mil plastic and duct tape. Also, cover AC/heating ducts, furniture, carpets, rugs, and floors. Dispose of the plastic carefully.
• To keep dust down, lightly mist painted surfaces with water before you work on them.
• Clean up thoroughly.
• Always clean up dust and chips with wet mops or rags soaked in a solution of trisodium phosphate (TSP) or phosphate-containing powdered dishwasher detergent and warm water. (Powdered dishwasher detergents are recommended because most have high phosphate contents. Most multipurpose household cleaners are not effective in cleaning up lead dust.)
• To avoid skin irritation when cleaning with TSP or high-phosphate dishwasher detergent, wear rubber gloves.
• Use two buckets-one for wash water and one for rinse water.
• To prevent recontamination of cleaned surfaces, wash mops and rags thoroughly after each use. If this is not possible, or if you have already used the mops and rags several times, place them in plastic bags and dispose of them carefully.
• Avoid dry sweeping or vacuuming the work area with an ordinary vacuum. Sweeping spreads lead dust around. Vacuuming also spreads lead dust around, since tiny lead particles can pass through and out of ordinary vacuum cleaners.
If Repairs or Renovations have been completed
If renovations have already occurred or are occurring, you should do the following:
• Keep children away from paint dust and chips.
• Clean up all dust and chips with wet mops and rags, as described above. Pay special attention to floors and to window sills and wells.
• Close your windows if work is going on outside your home that may be scattering lead dust (for example, a neighbor scraping exterior paint). Using wet mops and rags, clean up any dust that has gotten into your home.
• Have children under six years old tested for lead. To arrange for testing, call your doctor or your local health department.
HUD and EPA estimate that at least 19 million homes in the U.S. have lead-based paint hazards, of which at least 4 million were occupied by families with young children under age 6 (HUD 1990; EPA 1995). Over time, homes with these specific conditions change, as families age or move, and as buildings deteriorate
Lead-based paint can be on walls, ceilings, woodwork, windows, and sometimes floors. When lead-based paint on these surfaces is broken, sanded, or scraped, it breaks into tiny, usually invisible, pieces that you or your child may swallow or inhale. Even small repair and renovation jobs, including repainting projects, can create enough lead dust and chips to harm you. If proper precautions are not taken, renovation, remodeling and maintenance, including repainting, can generate large amounts of lead-contaminated dust and soil.
Before You Repair or Renovate
BEFORE you disturb a surface with old paint on it, you should ...
• Contact a certified lead inspector or call your county health department or check your yellow pages under lead-paint detection services.
• If lead-based paint is found in your home, have the repair or renovation done by a contractor who has been trained in "lead-safe work practices."
If You Suspect That You Have Lead Paint . . .
AVOID the following activities, which can produce dust and chips:
• dry scraping, sanding, or using a heat gun on painted surfaces before repainting;
• making holes in walls to get at pipes, or tearing out walls;
• allowing furniture or other objects to bump against painted surfaces, or unnecessarily opening and closing windows and doors with painted frames and sills.
If You are Doing the Repair or Renovation
If you will do repairs or renovations yourself in areas where you know or suspect lead-based paint is present, you SHOULD:
• Move children and pregnant women to another apartment or house until work is completed and the area is properly cleaned.
• Seal off the work area with 6 mil plastic and duct tape. Also, cover AC/heating ducts, furniture, carpets, rugs, and floors. Dispose of the plastic carefully.
• To keep dust down, lightly mist painted surfaces with water before you work on them.
• Clean up thoroughly.
• Always clean up dust and chips with wet mops or rags soaked in a solution of trisodium phosphate (TSP) or phosphate-containing powdered dishwasher detergent and warm water. (Powdered dishwasher detergents are recommended because most have high phosphate contents. Most multipurpose household cleaners are not effective in cleaning up lead dust.)
• To avoid skin irritation when cleaning with TSP or high-phosphate dishwasher detergent, wear rubber gloves.
• Use two buckets-one for wash water and one for rinse water.
• To prevent recontamination of cleaned surfaces, wash mops and rags thoroughly after each use. If this is not possible, or if you have already used the mops and rags several times, place them in plastic bags and dispose of them carefully.
• Avoid dry sweeping or vacuuming the work area with an ordinary vacuum. Sweeping spreads lead dust around. Vacuuming also spreads lead dust around, since tiny lead particles can pass through and out of ordinary vacuum cleaners.
If Repairs or Renovations have been completed
If renovations have already occurred or are occurring, you should do the following:
• Keep children away from paint dust and chips.
• Clean up all dust and chips with wet mops and rags, as described above. Pay special attention to floors and to window sills and wells.
• Close your windows if work is going on outside your home that may be scattering lead dust (for example, a neighbor scraping exterior paint). Using wet mops and rags, clean up any dust that has gotten into your home.
• Have children under six years old tested for lead. To arrange for testing, call your doctor or your local health department.
Saturday, January 14, 2006
10 Important Things to Consider Before Designing a New Kitchen ?
Here are 10 important guidelines for your kitchen design project.
For efficiency, the work triangle (the space between the sink, refrigerator, and stove) should measure 26’ or less with no single side longer than 9’, or less than 4’.
In kitchens smaller than 150 sq. ft., opt for at least 13’ of base cabinets, 12’ of wall cabinets, and 11’ of countertop. In kitchens which are larger, go with at least 16’ of base cabinets, 15 1/2’ of wall cabinets, and 16 1/2’ of countertop.
For convenience, plan work aisles to be at least 42” wide for one cook, and at least 48” wide in multi-cook kitchens.
Specify a minimum of 24” of counter space on one side of the sink and at least 18” on the other.
To create the most accessible landing for unloading groceries, allow at least 15” of counter space on the handle side of a standard refrigerator; on both sides if it’s a side-by-side model. Or include a landing area directly across from the refrigerator, but no more than 48” away.
For cleanup ease, install the dishwasher within 36” of one edge of the sink and allow for at least 21” of standing room next to it.
For microwaves and ovens, provide at least 15 “ of counter space nearby, at least 16” deep.
For optimum clearance, no entry, appliance, or cabinet doors should interfere with another.
For comfort and to help avoid repetitive-motion injury, plan for work counters of different heights; between 28 and 36” off the floor (easier for chopping and seated-use access), and between 36 and 46” for general tasks (higher counters accommodate taller cooks).
To install a cabinet unit above the cook top, make sure the clearance is at least 24” for a fireproof surface, 30” for an unprotected surface.
Designing a kitchen is as much a science as it is an art. Knowing the recommended measurements to use when planning the project can make all the difference in the final outcome.
More about home design at: http://luxury-home.ca/Design.htm
For efficiency, the work triangle (the space between the sink, refrigerator, and stove) should measure 26’ or less with no single side longer than 9’, or less than 4’.
In kitchens smaller than 150 sq. ft., opt for at least 13’ of base cabinets, 12’ of wall cabinets, and 11’ of countertop. In kitchens which are larger, go with at least 16’ of base cabinets, 15 1/2’ of wall cabinets, and 16 1/2’ of countertop.
For convenience, plan work aisles to be at least 42” wide for one cook, and at least 48” wide in multi-cook kitchens.
Specify a minimum of 24” of counter space on one side of the sink and at least 18” on the other.
To create the most accessible landing for unloading groceries, allow at least 15” of counter space on the handle side of a standard refrigerator; on both sides if it’s a side-by-side model. Or include a landing area directly across from the refrigerator, but no more than 48” away.
For cleanup ease, install the dishwasher within 36” of one edge of the sink and allow for at least 21” of standing room next to it.
For microwaves and ovens, provide at least 15 “ of counter space nearby, at least 16” deep.
For optimum clearance, no entry, appliance, or cabinet doors should interfere with another.
For comfort and to help avoid repetitive-motion injury, plan for work counters of different heights; between 28 and 36” off the floor (easier for chopping and seated-use access), and between 36 and 46” for general tasks (higher counters accommodate taller cooks).
To install a cabinet unit above the cook top, make sure the clearance is at least 24” for a fireproof surface, 30” for an unprotected surface.
Designing a kitchen is as much a science as it is an art. Knowing the recommended measurements to use when planning the project can make all the difference in the final outcome.
More about home design at: http://luxury-home.ca/Design.htm
Wednesday, January 11, 2006
Radiant Floor Heat: Caressing Your Mind, Body and Your Soles...
There is no doubt that radiant floor heating is a superior method of heating your home. Its popularity is steadily increasing as people discover that not only is it the most comfortable form of heating, but also the most cost efficient.
Though comfort and cost are the two biggest benefits of this heating system there are many others:
-Silent operation – no hum or whistle of a forced air system.
-Inconspicuousness of the system – you don’t see vents or air blowing.
-A healthier home – forced air systems can spread dust, pollen, and germs.
-Even, quiet warmth: even with wood, tile, or uncovered concrete floors.
-Also, radiant heat is less likely to dry out your breathing passages and skin.
The warmth of the floor on a cold winter morning would probably be enough to convince a lot of people that radiant floor heating is the best thing since sliced bread. However, after discovering the cost savings, there is usually no going back.
Radiant floor heating concentrates the heat in the lower half of a room where the human body needs it most. Since heat is evenly distributed in the floor, the thermostat can be set 2 – 4° less than a forced air heating system. This can reduce energy cost by 10-30%. Homes and building with high ceiling will save even more in heating costs as heat generated by forced air systems quickly rises to the top of these structures, where it is of little use.
Whereas a forced air system delivers heat which quickly rises to the ceiling – a radiant floor heating system radiates heat from the floor and delivers the heat evenly throughout the rooms.
In a radiant floor heating system warm water circulates through tubing beneath the floor. This turns the flooring into an efficient, low temperature radiator.
Though Radiant Floor heating is not a complicated system, there are components which are required, and that the homeowner should be aware of – The Heating Source, The Boiler, The Pump and the Tubing.
The heating source can be electricity, solar, natural gas, propane, oil, wood, or any other heating source.
The boiler, with a certified efficiency rating houses the water to be heated. This same boiler can also be used to heat the pool, snow melting, heating a hot tub, or and domestic hot water needs.
A Pump is required to circulate the water though the tubing located under the floor.
The tubing for a radiant floor heating system is located either in the concrete, under wood subfloors, or on a subfloor of wood, precast concrete or concrete slab-on-grade, then covered with gypsum.
Once a homeowner makes the decision to install radiant floor heating system, contacting the right installer is imperative.
Some companies who design radiant floor heating systems may also install the system.
A qualified System Designer and a qualified System Installer will work together and know which components work well together, capacities of various systems, special considerations for installations in your area, and manufacturers’ warranties and reliability.
The designer should do a room-by-room heat loss analysis of your home or building done as well as a step-by-step system sizing process.
Original article can be found at: Radiant Floor Heat
More Articles at: Radiant Floor Heating and Radiant Heat
Though comfort and cost are the two biggest benefits of this heating system there are many others:
-Silent operation – no hum or whistle of a forced air system.
-Inconspicuousness of the system – you don’t see vents or air blowing.
-A healthier home – forced air systems can spread dust, pollen, and germs.
-Even, quiet warmth: even with wood, tile, or uncovered concrete floors.
-Also, radiant heat is less likely to dry out your breathing passages and skin.
The warmth of the floor on a cold winter morning would probably be enough to convince a lot of people that radiant floor heating is the best thing since sliced bread. However, after discovering the cost savings, there is usually no going back.
Radiant floor heating concentrates the heat in the lower half of a room where the human body needs it most. Since heat is evenly distributed in the floor, the thermostat can be set 2 – 4° less than a forced air heating system. This can reduce energy cost by 10-30%. Homes and building with high ceiling will save even more in heating costs as heat generated by forced air systems quickly rises to the top of these structures, where it is of little use.
Whereas a forced air system delivers heat which quickly rises to the ceiling – a radiant floor heating system radiates heat from the floor and delivers the heat evenly throughout the rooms.
In a radiant floor heating system warm water circulates through tubing beneath the floor. This turns the flooring into an efficient, low temperature radiator.
Though Radiant Floor heating is not a complicated system, there are components which are required, and that the homeowner should be aware of – The Heating Source, The Boiler, The Pump and the Tubing.
The heating source can be electricity, solar, natural gas, propane, oil, wood, or any other heating source.
The boiler, with a certified efficiency rating houses the water to be heated. This same boiler can also be used to heat the pool, snow melting, heating a hot tub, or and domestic hot water needs.
A Pump is required to circulate the water though the tubing located under the floor.
The tubing for a radiant floor heating system is located either in the concrete, under wood subfloors, or on a subfloor of wood, precast concrete or concrete slab-on-grade, then covered with gypsum.
Once a homeowner makes the decision to install radiant floor heating system, contacting the right installer is imperative.
Some companies who design radiant floor heating systems may also install the system.
A qualified System Designer and a qualified System Installer will work together and know which components work well together, capacities of various systems, special considerations for installations in your area, and manufacturers’ warranties and reliability.
The designer should do a room-by-room heat loss analysis of your home or building done as well as a step-by-step system sizing process.
Original article can be found at: Radiant Floor Heat
More Articles at: Radiant Floor Heating and Radiant Heat
Tuesday, January 10, 2006
Selling your Property – How to Present to Potential Purchasers
When you are deciding to sell your property it is always an idea to make the property a potential purchase too as many buyers as possible. One of the best ways of doing this would be to present the property as if it were a blank canvas on to which a potential buyer can stamp their own individual tastes. Below are provided a few simple rules which should help you when to obtain that potential sale of your property without too much effort or cost to yourself...
more at:Luxury Home.ca
More Info can be found at: Ontario Home Builder
or at: Repairing/Building Contractor
more at:Luxury Home.ca
More Info can be found at: Ontario Home Builder
or at: Repairing/Building Contractor
Monday, January 02, 2006
Waterproofing Your Foundation? What Is The Right Choice?
Waterproofing is Protecting your property foundation – be it residential or commercial – from cracks due to natural processes such as water damage, thermal movement, shrinking, settlement and other causes...
Read more at:
http://luxury-home.ca/Articles/Waterproofing-Your-Foundation.htm
More info at: http://www.luxury-home.ca
or at: http://ontario-home-builder.com
Read more at:
http://luxury-home.ca/Articles/Waterproofing-Your-Foundation.htm
More info at: http://www.luxury-home.ca
or at: http://ontario-home-builder.com
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