Hot water heating accounts for about 20% (or more) of the average North American household’s annual energy costs. With energy prices rising day by day it is becoming important to take a closer look at where the money is going.
The average yearly cost for a conventional gas or electric storage hot water heater is approximately $500 for a 1300sq.ft. 4 member family home. It lowers or increases depending on how many people live in the house and on their particular water usage habits.
Conventional hot water heaters store water and maintain the water temperature to the temperature setting on the tank - usually between 120° and 140° F. That means keeping water hot even when you do not need it - while you are at work; while you are sleeping; while you are away on holidays.
These “standby” losses represent 15% to 25% of a household’s annual water heating costs.
Another thing that annoys all of us, is waiting for the water to heat up because someone took a bath before us. The storage tank water heaters only have a limited amount of hot water. After that is gone you have to wait for the tank to get heated again.
Throughout the rest of the world, where energy costs have consistently been higher than in North America, different methods of heating water are common.
Enter Tankless Hot Water Heaters. They began appearing in the United States and Canada about 25 years ago but have been used in Europe for the last 50 years.
Unlike "conventional" tank water heaters, tankless water heaters heat water only as it is used, or “on demand”. Opening a hot water faucet ignites the powerful burners and the computer monitors the water temperature and adjusts the burners according to the need. High demand, high heat. Low demand, low heat.
Because the efficiency rate of tankless water heaters is about 20% higher, averaging around 90% and going up to 96% and there is no stand by losses, savings on your energy bills are evident.
Some models even have the capacity to heat the house at the same time. With these tankless water heaters, which are connected either to radiant floor heat or to a heating coil in your furnace (air handler), you can bring high efficiency space heating capacities to every home.
Just imagine a contraption the size of your kitchen cabinet, heating your home and giving you an endless supply of potable hot water. You do not need a separate furnace and a separate hot water heater.
Some models can be mounted on the exterior of a home, freeing up valuable floor and closet space on the inside. The unit can be placed in a recessed box, flush-mounted and painted or textured to match the exterior of the home.
Tankless water heaters can also be used for supplementary heat, such as a booster to a solar hot water system, or snow melting systems, or to meet all your hot water needs.
The major players include: Takagi, Rheem, Noritz, Rinnai and up and coming Luna Baxi.
We would suggest researching different makes and models in order to make the right choice for your particular needs and circumstances.
Monday, February 27, 2006
Monday, February 20, 2006
Ways To Heat Your Water...
Where you live, as well as the life style you lead, the number of people in your household, and where you’ll put the water heating system, you’ll need to factor these realities in if you’re going to purchase a new hot water system, or getting a back up system... more at: http://luxury-home.ca/Articles/Ways-To-Heat-Your-Water.htm
P.S. New Sites:
http://repairing-building-contractor.com
http://home-design.ca
http://insulated-concrete.com
P.S. New Sites:
http://repairing-building-contractor.com
http://home-design.ca
http://insulated-concrete.com
Tuesday, February 14, 2006
Is This Your Dream Home?
Are you aware that a new type of home exists that is guaranteed to change the way you live?
A home that is:
2X more energy efficient than a conventional wood-framed home.
3X more sound resistant than a wood-framed wall.
4X more fire resistant than a wood-framed wall.
9X stronger than a conventional wood-framed home.
It is a fact that today’s well-informed homeowners are looking for newer, more efficient ways to build homes. They want strength, comfort and lower energy bills, while also allowing for flexibility of design and lower future maintenance costs. Energy efficiency remains the quickest, cheapest and cleanest way to help lower home energy bills.
Building technology has advanced greatly. Quality builders are using ICF’s (Insulated Concrete Forms) to create homes that are safer, stronger and healthier than ever before. This type of building is based on simple, interlocking, stacking “blocks” made from flame-retardant expanded polystyrene (EPS) panels connected by molded-in high density polyethylene structural foam bridging. Filled with concrete, these blocks create a monolithic wall with a minimum insulation value of R25; which then because of the heat retaining properties of concrete increase their performance to R50. They also have a fire rating which is just under four hours. In addition to all this, there is an added bonus of efficiency because building the walls of a home with ICF’s can take one half of the time (or less) of conventional construction.
The really good news is that now everyone can afford to live in one of these homes; everyone who is concerned about future energy costs and their environment”.
The initial investment is only about 10% more than the old way of building (wood-frame); but considerably less when you think of the long term costs of energy and maintenance.
Adding other energy efficient features, such as High Efficiency Tank-Less Water Heaters that can heat your whole house while giving you an endless stream of hot water; High Efficiency Low-E Argon Windows, Heat Recovery Ventilators connected to an “Earth Energy” system that pre-conditions incoming air, and Radiant Floor Heating which gives you the ultimate in comfort with body temperature heated floors, can slash 50% off of a homeowner’s monthly heating and cooling bills.
Gone are the days of buying a home for appearance sake only. A little bit of effort and common sense can go a long way in making your home more energy-efficient. New homebuyers are consciously choosing to make informed decisions concerning their future and that of their family’s future. They are turning to homes which are more energy-efficient, and environmentally-friendly in addition to paying them dividends for years to come.
A home that is:
2X more energy efficient than a conventional wood-framed home.
3X more sound resistant than a wood-framed wall.
4X more fire resistant than a wood-framed wall.
9X stronger than a conventional wood-framed home.
It is a fact that today’s well-informed homeowners are looking for newer, more efficient ways to build homes. They want strength, comfort and lower energy bills, while also allowing for flexibility of design and lower future maintenance costs. Energy efficiency remains the quickest, cheapest and cleanest way to help lower home energy bills.
Building technology has advanced greatly. Quality builders are using ICF’s (Insulated Concrete Forms) to create homes that are safer, stronger and healthier than ever before. This type of building is based on simple, interlocking, stacking “blocks” made from flame-retardant expanded polystyrene (EPS) panels connected by molded-in high density polyethylene structural foam bridging. Filled with concrete, these blocks create a monolithic wall with a minimum insulation value of R25; which then because of the heat retaining properties of concrete increase their performance to R50. They also have a fire rating which is just under four hours. In addition to all this, there is an added bonus of efficiency because building the walls of a home with ICF’s can take one half of the time (or less) of conventional construction.
The really good news is that now everyone can afford to live in one of these homes; everyone who is concerned about future energy costs and their environment”.
The initial investment is only about 10% more than the old way of building (wood-frame); but considerably less when you think of the long term costs of energy and maintenance.
Adding other energy efficient features, such as High Efficiency Tank-Less Water Heaters that can heat your whole house while giving you an endless stream of hot water; High Efficiency Low-E Argon Windows, Heat Recovery Ventilators connected to an “Earth Energy” system that pre-conditions incoming air, and Radiant Floor Heating which gives you the ultimate in comfort with body temperature heated floors, can slash 50% off of a homeowner’s monthly heating and cooling bills.
Gone are the days of buying a home for appearance sake only. A little bit of effort and common sense can go a long way in making your home more energy-efficient. New homebuyers are consciously choosing to make informed decisions concerning their future and that of their family’s future. They are turning to homes which are more energy-efficient, and environmentally-friendly in addition to paying them dividends for years to come.
Monday, February 06, 2006
How to Choose the Best Floor Plan for Your House?
Floor plan should be designed to meet your needs as well as those of your family. First of all it should have an adequate square footage – not too much, so that you don’t have too much unused space and increased costs of maintenance, and not too small, so that you have privacy, and room for all family activities as well as entertainment.
Here are things to look for while designing your floor plan:
• Garage should be close to the kitchen, preferably next to it, so that you have an easy access to the refrigerator or pantry while carrying your groceries to the house. It makes your job much easier for garbage removal as well.
• Two-story house usually costs less to build than one-story.
• When you decide to build a bedroom above garage, be ready to live with the noise caused by the opening and closing of garage doors.
• You need enough room for storage. Most builders don’t pay significant amount of attention to this point, yet most homeowners complain about not having enough storage. You should make sure there is plenty of closets in the bedrooms, large enough pantry closet and closets for towels as well for the coats, by the main entrance door.
• Plan your traffic patterns ahead of time. Observe where you spend most of your time and plan accordingly. Try to avoid putting any obstacles or doors in the way of major traffic paths.
• Consider proper room layout for noise. You do not want to have a library or bedroom next to a playroom or close to the area where TV or stereo unit is.
• Place dining room next to the kitchen so that you can avoid unnecessary steps while serving meals to your guests or your family members.
• Include at least half a bath on the first floor when planning a two-story house.
• I often see bathrooms next to the kitchen in older homes. This is definitely a bad combination and something you should avoid at all costs.
• Walk-in pantry is a good selling point at present time but make sure it makes sense in your situation. Regular closets are often more economical and provide more storage.
• Plan carefully on where to put washer and dryer. It is a good idea to have them on the second floor, next to the master bedroom, in order to avoid going up and down the stairs with your laundry. Take the noise into consideration, though. Calculate extra plumbing costs as well. If it all makes sense, go ahead and do it.
• Certain areas of the house, like bedrooms and library should be isolated from sound as much as possible. You can accomplish this by arranging your floor plan properly as well as adding an extra insulation in the walls or floors and by installing solid-core doors with higher sound-proofing qualities.
• High ceilings are very fashionable at present but you have to decide for yourself if they fit both: your budget and tastes. High ceilings take away living space. The same space might be used for an extra bedroom. You have to decide if you are after esthetics or practicality.
• Do you want a basement or can you live without it? Adding a full basement is costly but you should be able to recoup the cost at the time of sale, especially if your house is in the area of homes with basements.
About The Author
Mark Badowski has been in real estate business for the last 21 years. He is a builder/developer in the Chicagoland area. He had worked in banking, real estate investments and sales. To learn more about the subject covered in this article you can visit his website at: http://www.real-estate-developer-homebuilder.com/house-plan.ht
Here are things to look for while designing your floor plan:
• Garage should be close to the kitchen, preferably next to it, so that you have an easy access to the refrigerator or pantry while carrying your groceries to the house. It makes your job much easier for garbage removal as well.
• Two-story house usually costs less to build than one-story.
• When you decide to build a bedroom above garage, be ready to live with the noise caused by the opening and closing of garage doors.
• You need enough room for storage. Most builders don’t pay significant amount of attention to this point, yet most homeowners complain about not having enough storage. You should make sure there is plenty of closets in the bedrooms, large enough pantry closet and closets for towels as well for the coats, by the main entrance door.
• Plan your traffic patterns ahead of time. Observe where you spend most of your time and plan accordingly. Try to avoid putting any obstacles or doors in the way of major traffic paths.
• Consider proper room layout for noise. You do not want to have a library or bedroom next to a playroom or close to the area where TV or stereo unit is.
• Place dining room next to the kitchen so that you can avoid unnecessary steps while serving meals to your guests or your family members.
• Include at least half a bath on the first floor when planning a two-story house.
• I often see bathrooms next to the kitchen in older homes. This is definitely a bad combination and something you should avoid at all costs.
• Walk-in pantry is a good selling point at present time but make sure it makes sense in your situation. Regular closets are often more economical and provide more storage.
• Plan carefully on where to put washer and dryer. It is a good idea to have them on the second floor, next to the master bedroom, in order to avoid going up and down the stairs with your laundry. Take the noise into consideration, though. Calculate extra plumbing costs as well. If it all makes sense, go ahead and do it.
• Certain areas of the house, like bedrooms and library should be isolated from sound as much as possible. You can accomplish this by arranging your floor plan properly as well as adding an extra insulation in the walls or floors and by installing solid-core doors with higher sound-proofing qualities.
• High ceilings are very fashionable at present but you have to decide for yourself if they fit both: your budget and tastes. High ceilings take away living space. The same space might be used for an extra bedroom. You have to decide if you are after esthetics or practicality.
• Do you want a basement or can you live without it? Adding a full basement is costly but you should be able to recoup the cost at the time of sale, especially if your house is in the area of homes with basements.
About The Author
Mark Badowski has been in real estate business for the last 21 years. He is a builder/developer in the Chicagoland area. He had worked in banking, real estate investments and sales. To learn more about the subject covered in this article you can visit his website at: http://www.real-estate-developer-homebuilder.com/house-plan.ht
Sunday, January 29, 2006
What You Should Know About Lead-Based Paint
Most houses and apartments built before 1978 contain lead-based paint. Lead-based paint produced before 1960 contains higher concentrations of lead than paint manufactured in later years. In fact, the older the home, the more likely it is to have lead-based paint hazards.
HUD and EPA estimate that at least 19 million homes in the U.S. have lead-based paint hazards, of which at least 4 million were occupied by families with young children under age 6 (HUD 1990; EPA 1995). Over time, homes with these specific conditions change, as families age or move, and as buildings deteriorate
Lead-based paint can be on walls, ceilings, woodwork, windows, and sometimes floors. When lead-based paint on these surfaces is broken, sanded, or scraped, it breaks into tiny, usually invisible, pieces that you or your child may swallow or inhale. Even small repair and renovation jobs, including repainting projects, can create enough lead dust and chips to harm you. If proper precautions are not taken, renovation, remodeling and maintenance, including repainting, can generate large amounts of lead-contaminated dust and soil.
Before You Repair or Renovate
BEFORE you disturb a surface with old paint on it, you should ...
• Contact a certified lead inspector or call your county health department or check your yellow pages under lead-paint detection services.
• If lead-based paint is found in your home, have the repair or renovation done by a contractor who has been trained in "lead-safe work practices."
If You Suspect That You Have Lead Paint . . .
AVOID the following activities, which can produce dust and chips:
• dry scraping, sanding, or using a heat gun on painted surfaces before repainting;
• making holes in walls to get at pipes, or tearing out walls;
• allowing furniture or other objects to bump against painted surfaces, or unnecessarily opening and closing windows and doors with painted frames and sills.
If You are Doing the Repair or Renovation
If you will do repairs or renovations yourself in areas where you know or suspect lead-based paint is present, you SHOULD:
• Move children and pregnant women to another apartment or house until work is completed and the area is properly cleaned.
• Seal off the work area with 6 mil plastic and duct tape. Also, cover AC/heating ducts, furniture, carpets, rugs, and floors. Dispose of the plastic carefully.
• To keep dust down, lightly mist painted surfaces with water before you work on them.
• Clean up thoroughly.
• Always clean up dust and chips with wet mops or rags soaked in a solution of trisodium phosphate (TSP) or phosphate-containing powdered dishwasher detergent and warm water. (Powdered dishwasher detergents are recommended because most have high phosphate contents. Most multipurpose household cleaners are not effective in cleaning up lead dust.)
• To avoid skin irritation when cleaning with TSP or high-phosphate dishwasher detergent, wear rubber gloves.
• Use two buckets-one for wash water and one for rinse water.
• To prevent recontamination of cleaned surfaces, wash mops and rags thoroughly after each use. If this is not possible, or if you have already used the mops and rags several times, place them in plastic bags and dispose of them carefully.
• Avoid dry sweeping or vacuuming the work area with an ordinary vacuum. Sweeping spreads lead dust around. Vacuuming also spreads lead dust around, since tiny lead particles can pass through and out of ordinary vacuum cleaners.
If Repairs or Renovations have been completed
If renovations have already occurred or are occurring, you should do the following:
• Keep children away from paint dust and chips.
• Clean up all dust and chips with wet mops and rags, as described above. Pay special attention to floors and to window sills and wells.
• Close your windows if work is going on outside your home that may be scattering lead dust (for example, a neighbor scraping exterior paint). Using wet mops and rags, clean up any dust that has gotten into your home.
• Have children under six years old tested for lead. To arrange for testing, call your doctor or your local health department.
HUD and EPA estimate that at least 19 million homes in the U.S. have lead-based paint hazards, of which at least 4 million were occupied by families with young children under age 6 (HUD 1990; EPA 1995). Over time, homes with these specific conditions change, as families age or move, and as buildings deteriorate
Lead-based paint can be on walls, ceilings, woodwork, windows, and sometimes floors. When lead-based paint on these surfaces is broken, sanded, or scraped, it breaks into tiny, usually invisible, pieces that you or your child may swallow or inhale. Even small repair and renovation jobs, including repainting projects, can create enough lead dust and chips to harm you. If proper precautions are not taken, renovation, remodeling and maintenance, including repainting, can generate large amounts of lead-contaminated dust and soil.
Before You Repair or Renovate
BEFORE you disturb a surface with old paint on it, you should ...
• Contact a certified lead inspector or call your county health department or check your yellow pages under lead-paint detection services.
• If lead-based paint is found in your home, have the repair or renovation done by a contractor who has been trained in "lead-safe work practices."
If You Suspect That You Have Lead Paint . . .
AVOID the following activities, which can produce dust and chips:
• dry scraping, sanding, or using a heat gun on painted surfaces before repainting;
• making holes in walls to get at pipes, or tearing out walls;
• allowing furniture or other objects to bump against painted surfaces, or unnecessarily opening and closing windows and doors with painted frames and sills.
If You are Doing the Repair or Renovation
If you will do repairs or renovations yourself in areas where you know or suspect lead-based paint is present, you SHOULD:
• Move children and pregnant women to another apartment or house until work is completed and the area is properly cleaned.
• Seal off the work area with 6 mil plastic and duct tape. Also, cover AC/heating ducts, furniture, carpets, rugs, and floors. Dispose of the plastic carefully.
• To keep dust down, lightly mist painted surfaces with water before you work on them.
• Clean up thoroughly.
• Always clean up dust and chips with wet mops or rags soaked in a solution of trisodium phosphate (TSP) or phosphate-containing powdered dishwasher detergent and warm water. (Powdered dishwasher detergents are recommended because most have high phosphate contents. Most multipurpose household cleaners are not effective in cleaning up lead dust.)
• To avoid skin irritation when cleaning with TSP or high-phosphate dishwasher detergent, wear rubber gloves.
• Use two buckets-one for wash water and one for rinse water.
• To prevent recontamination of cleaned surfaces, wash mops and rags thoroughly after each use. If this is not possible, or if you have already used the mops and rags several times, place them in plastic bags and dispose of them carefully.
• Avoid dry sweeping or vacuuming the work area with an ordinary vacuum. Sweeping spreads lead dust around. Vacuuming also spreads lead dust around, since tiny lead particles can pass through and out of ordinary vacuum cleaners.
If Repairs or Renovations have been completed
If renovations have already occurred or are occurring, you should do the following:
• Keep children away from paint dust and chips.
• Clean up all dust and chips with wet mops and rags, as described above. Pay special attention to floors and to window sills and wells.
• Close your windows if work is going on outside your home that may be scattering lead dust (for example, a neighbor scraping exterior paint). Using wet mops and rags, clean up any dust that has gotten into your home.
• Have children under six years old tested for lead. To arrange for testing, call your doctor or your local health department.
Saturday, January 14, 2006
10 Important Things to Consider Before Designing a New Kitchen ?
Here are 10 important guidelines for your kitchen design project.
For efficiency, the work triangle (the space between the sink, refrigerator, and stove) should measure 26’ or less with no single side longer than 9’, or less than 4’.
In kitchens smaller than 150 sq. ft., opt for at least 13’ of base cabinets, 12’ of wall cabinets, and 11’ of countertop. In kitchens which are larger, go with at least 16’ of base cabinets, 15 1/2’ of wall cabinets, and 16 1/2’ of countertop.
For convenience, plan work aisles to be at least 42” wide for one cook, and at least 48” wide in multi-cook kitchens.
Specify a minimum of 24” of counter space on one side of the sink and at least 18” on the other.
To create the most accessible landing for unloading groceries, allow at least 15” of counter space on the handle side of a standard refrigerator; on both sides if it’s a side-by-side model. Or include a landing area directly across from the refrigerator, but no more than 48” away.
For cleanup ease, install the dishwasher within 36” of one edge of the sink and allow for at least 21” of standing room next to it.
For microwaves and ovens, provide at least 15 “ of counter space nearby, at least 16” deep.
For optimum clearance, no entry, appliance, or cabinet doors should interfere with another.
For comfort and to help avoid repetitive-motion injury, plan for work counters of different heights; between 28 and 36” off the floor (easier for chopping and seated-use access), and between 36 and 46” for general tasks (higher counters accommodate taller cooks).
To install a cabinet unit above the cook top, make sure the clearance is at least 24” for a fireproof surface, 30” for an unprotected surface.
Designing a kitchen is as much a science as it is an art. Knowing the recommended measurements to use when planning the project can make all the difference in the final outcome.
More about home design at: http://luxury-home.ca/Design.htm
For efficiency, the work triangle (the space between the sink, refrigerator, and stove) should measure 26’ or less with no single side longer than 9’, or less than 4’.
In kitchens smaller than 150 sq. ft., opt for at least 13’ of base cabinets, 12’ of wall cabinets, and 11’ of countertop. In kitchens which are larger, go with at least 16’ of base cabinets, 15 1/2’ of wall cabinets, and 16 1/2’ of countertop.
For convenience, plan work aisles to be at least 42” wide for one cook, and at least 48” wide in multi-cook kitchens.
Specify a minimum of 24” of counter space on one side of the sink and at least 18” on the other.
To create the most accessible landing for unloading groceries, allow at least 15” of counter space on the handle side of a standard refrigerator; on both sides if it’s a side-by-side model. Or include a landing area directly across from the refrigerator, but no more than 48” away.
For cleanup ease, install the dishwasher within 36” of one edge of the sink and allow for at least 21” of standing room next to it.
For microwaves and ovens, provide at least 15 “ of counter space nearby, at least 16” deep.
For optimum clearance, no entry, appliance, or cabinet doors should interfere with another.
For comfort and to help avoid repetitive-motion injury, plan for work counters of different heights; between 28 and 36” off the floor (easier for chopping and seated-use access), and between 36 and 46” for general tasks (higher counters accommodate taller cooks).
To install a cabinet unit above the cook top, make sure the clearance is at least 24” for a fireproof surface, 30” for an unprotected surface.
Designing a kitchen is as much a science as it is an art. Knowing the recommended measurements to use when planning the project can make all the difference in the final outcome.
More about home design at: http://luxury-home.ca/Design.htm
Wednesday, January 11, 2006
Radiant Floor Heat: Caressing Your Mind, Body and Your Soles...
There is no doubt that radiant floor heating is a superior method of heating your home. Its popularity is steadily increasing as people discover that not only is it the most comfortable form of heating, but also the most cost efficient.
Though comfort and cost are the two biggest benefits of this heating system there are many others:
-Silent operation – no hum or whistle of a forced air system.
-Inconspicuousness of the system – you don’t see vents or air blowing.
-A healthier home – forced air systems can spread dust, pollen, and germs.
-Even, quiet warmth: even with wood, tile, or uncovered concrete floors.
-Also, radiant heat is less likely to dry out your breathing passages and skin.
The warmth of the floor on a cold winter morning would probably be enough to convince a lot of people that radiant floor heating is the best thing since sliced bread. However, after discovering the cost savings, there is usually no going back.
Radiant floor heating concentrates the heat in the lower half of a room where the human body needs it most. Since heat is evenly distributed in the floor, the thermostat can be set 2 – 4° less than a forced air heating system. This can reduce energy cost by 10-30%. Homes and building with high ceiling will save even more in heating costs as heat generated by forced air systems quickly rises to the top of these structures, where it is of little use.
Whereas a forced air system delivers heat which quickly rises to the ceiling – a radiant floor heating system radiates heat from the floor and delivers the heat evenly throughout the rooms.
In a radiant floor heating system warm water circulates through tubing beneath the floor. This turns the flooring into an efficient, low temperature radiator.
Though Radiant Floor heating is not a complicated system, there are components which are required, and that the homeowner should be aware of – The Heating Source, The Boiler, The Pump and the Tubing.
The heating source can be electricity, solar, natural gas, propane, oil, wood, or any other heating source.
The boiler, with a certified efficiency rating houses the water to be heated. This same boiler can also be used to heat the pool, snow melting, heating a hot tub, or and domestic hot water needs.
A Pump is required to circulate the water though the tubing located under the floor.
The tubing for a radiant floor heating system is located either in the concrete, under wood subfloors, or on a subfloor of wood, precast concrete or concrete slab-on-grade, then covered with gypsum.
Once a homeowner makes the decision to install radiant floor heating system, contacting the right installer is imperative.
Some companies who design radiant floor heating systems may also install the system.
A qualified System Designer and a qualified System Installer will work together and know which components work well together, capacities of various systems, special considerations for installations in your area, and manufacturers’ warranties and reliability.
The designer should do a room-by-room heat loss analysis of your home or building done as well as a step-by-step system sizing process.
Original article can be found at: Radiant Floor Heat
More Articles at: Radiant Floor Heating and Radiant Heat
Though comfort and cost are the two biggest benefits of this heating system there are many others:
-Silent operation – no hum or whistle of a forced air system.
-Inconspicuousness of the system – you don’t see vents or air blowing.
-A healthier home – forced air systems can spread dust, pollen, and germs.
-Even, quiet warmth: even with wood, tile, or uncovered concrete floors.
-Also, radiant heat is less likely to dry out your breathing passages and skin.
The warmth of the floor on a cold winter morning would probably be enough to convince a lot of people that radiant floor heating is the best thing since sliced bread. However, after discovering the cost savings, there is usually no going back.
Radiant floor heating concentrates the heat in the lower half of a room where the human body needs it most. Since heat is evenly distributed in the floor, the thermostat can be set 2 – 4° less than a forced air heating system. This can reduce energy cost by 10-30%. Homes and building with high ceiling will save even more in heating costs as heat generated by forced air systems quickly rises to the top of these structures, where it is of little use.
Whereas a forced air system delivers heat which quickly rises to the ceiling – a radiant floor heating system radiates heat from the floor and delivers the heat evenly throughout the rooms.
In a radiant floor heating system warm water circulates through tubing beneath the floor. This turns the flooring into an efficient, low temperature radiator.
Though Radiant Floor heating is not a complicated system, there are components which are required, and that the homeowner should be aware of – The Heating Source, The Boiler, The Pump and the Tubing.
The heating source can be electricity, solar, natural gas, propane, oil, wood, or any other heating source.
The boiler, with a certified efficiency rating houses the water to be heated. This same boiler can also be used to heat the pool, snow melting, heating a hot tub, or and domestic hot water needs.
A Pump is required to circulate the water though the tubing located under the floor.
The tubing for a radiant floor heating system is located either in the concrete, under wood subfloors, or on a subfloor of wood, precast concrete or concrete slab-on-grade, then covered with gypsum.
Once a homeowner makes the decision to install radiant floor heating system, contacting the right installer is imperative.
Some companies who design radiant floor heating systems may also install the system.
A qualified System Designer and a qualified System Installer will work together and know which components work well together, capacities of various systems, special considerations for installations in your area, and manufacturers’ warranties and reliability.
The designer should do a room-by-room heat loss analysis of your home or building done as well as a step-by-step system sizing process.
Original article can be found at: Radiant Floor Heat
More Articles at: Radiant Floor Heating and Radiant Heat
Tuesday, January 10, 2006
Selling your Property – How to Present to Potential Purchasers
When you are deciding to sell your property it is always an idea to make the property a potential purchase too as many buyers as possible. One of the best ways of doing this would be to present the property as if it were a blank canvas on to which a potential buyer can stamp their own individual tastes. Below are provided a few simple rules which should help you when to obtain that potential sale of your property without too much effort or cost to yourself...
more at:Luxury Home.ca
More Info can be found at: Ontario Home Builder
or at: Repairing/Building Contractor
more at:Luxury Home.ca
More Info can be found at: Ontario Home Builder
or at: Repairing/Building Contractor
Monday, January 02, 2006
Waterproofing Your Foundation? What Is The Right Choice?
Waterproofing is Protecting your property foundation – be it residential or commercial – from cracks due to natural processes such as water damage, thermal movement, shrinking, settlement and other causes...
Read more at:
http://luxury-home.ca/Articles/Waterproofing-Your-Foundation.htm
More info at: http://www.luxury-home.ca
or at: http://ontario-home-builder.com
Read more at:
http://luxury-home.ca/Articles/Waterproofing-Your-Foundation.htm
More info at: http://www.luxury-home.ca
or at: http://ontario-home-builder.com
Friday, December 30, 2005
Selling your Property – How to Present to Potential Purchasers...
When you are deciding to sell your property it is always an idea to make the property a potential purchase too as many buyers as possible. One of the best ways of doing this would be to present the property as if it were a blank canvas on to which a potential buyer can stamp their own individual tastes. Below are provided a few simple rules which should help you when to obtain that potential sale of your property without too much effort or cost to yourself...
http://www.luxury-home.ca/Articles/SellingYourProperty-HowToPresent.htm
http://www.luxury-home.ca/Articles/SellingYourProperty-HowToPresent.htm
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